Citizens of the World visit the Pub and the Mosque

Play it again, Sam!

In 1943, an unbelievably timely tale set in northwest Africa told the story of an exiled American running the most popular nightspot in town.  After the cynical ex-patriot comes into possession of two valuable letters of transit, trouble ensues as an underground leader requests them, a German deputy seeks to stop him and a French police captain tries to hustle the lot of them for his benefit.  And then there was Ilsa...


More unbelievably is that "Casablanca" only won three Academy Awards while it still stands the test of time arguably better than any other American film since.  Despite being filmed in the US and more accurately depicting Tangier, the movie has made its mark on the city for which it was named.  

Overlooking the port, Rick's is open from 12 - 3 and 6 - 1.

Opened seven years ago in an old mansion on the outskirts of the economic capital's tiny old medina, "Rick's Cafe" is a worthy throwback to Rick Blaine's old pub, despite lacking some of the original's charm.  Sitting between Sam's piano and Sascha's bar for lunch earlier today, traditionally-adorned waiters and waitresses served us western grub as a quiet middle-aged woman and an even quieter Asian couple replaced nefarious German military governors and flip-flopping Frenchmen.

Three stories of movie-inspired furniture and accouterments adorn the restaurant; here, the middle of the lobby raises to the roof.

Though the pub wasn't exactly jumping with activity, I enjoyed my chicken salad, shrimp and black noodles as "As Time Goes By" whispered through the walls and the over-staffed lobby waited for some work.  Afterward, a free postcard greeted us on the way out, and I was reminded of one of the film's quips as we began our walk to the Hassan II Mosque...

Major Strasser: What is your nationality?  

Rick: I'm a drunkard. 

Captain Renault: That makes Rick a citizen of the world. 

25,000 Muslims can pray indoors while another 80,000 are able to pray outside.  

The former king's project was built between 1987 and 1993 with government funds and one of the country's more controversial tax initiatives.  When finished, it was the second-largest religious building in the world after the mosque in Mecca, sprawling over almost a million square feet.

Over 35,000 craftsmen labored on the mosque.

With two-thirds of the mosque extended over the sea (in tribute to one of the Qoran's surras), the mosque is home to the largest minaret in world.  Measuring at 200m tall (over two football fields), the minaret is adorned with two laser beams that extend 35 km (20 miles) in the direction of Mecca after dusk.

After a 30-minute walk from the train station, we finally reached the mosque that appeared to never arrive. 

Getting inside wasn't difficult, as tours are given four times a day Monday through Saturday.  This mosque is one of a country's few religious sites that allows non-Muslims entry into its gigantic interior.  Composed of an underground hammam, multiple ablution rooms as well as giant prayer halls, the structure's ornamentation is only outdone by its massive scale.

Part of the Hammam, which is not actually used for traditional bathing.

41 Fountains fill one part of the Ablution Room, each capable of resting 8 Muslim backsides as they scrub feet and hands.

Though conspicuously empty of any furniture, the main prayer hall measures 200m long by 100m, with a central fountain that runs the length of its polished floor under a sliding dome roof that can be opened to air out a full house and complete the triumvirate of earth, water and air.

The Length of the Main Prayer Hall

The Prayer Hall Looking out to the Sea.

In the Center, the Imam's "Pulpit," Facing Mecca.

Underneath one of the Women's Galleries, capable of accommodating 5,000 women.

Throughout the tour, we didn't see most of the mosque's 41 fountains, 56 chandeliers or 360 interior loud speakers, but our guide pointed out the main water path running along the prayer hall's center, a handful of the Venician-made light fixtures and the granite columns that tactfully hid the speaker boxes.

Underneath the Minaret, One of Italy's Chandeliers.

Diagonally, a Ceder-made Stairwell raises to the Women's Prayer Hall.

Some of that Agadir Granite with one of the rare examples of painted (and not carved) ornamentation.

Back outside, we were informed that less than 20,000 devoted typically attend the hour-long Friday service, but that number jumps to about 100,000 daily during Ramadan for services three times as long.

One of the Iron Doors lining the Mosque's Exterior.

Another set of Doors.

This was my second time to the mosque but first inside it.  Walking through the cavernous interior, I couldn't help but reflect on a couple of Ghent's huge cathedrals and draw comparisons, or lack thereof.  The mosque held nothing inside; the cathedrals statues, pews, pulpits, organs and more.  Here, the structure was grand; there, the aforementioned articles.  Above the pews, a priest stands between you and God while those statues invite sideways peeks; kneeling above the granite here, one could safely say there's nothing between you and Him but your conversation.

If you're in the area and want to make a trip, you can do so between Monday and Saturday at 9, 10, 11 and 3.  Cost is 120 MAD for adults, 60 MAD for Moroccans/adult students and 30 MAD for students.  Tickets and the reception is located on the southern end of the complex down a flight of stairs.

The Middle Atlas: Volubulis, Fes and Ifrane (Part 5 of 6)

The short trip to Fes was our second - and least time consuming - drive.  Much needed after our five-day southern affair, the smooth, fast highway from Rabat to Fes was as much a welcome change of pace as it was a change of sites.  Roman ruins, tanneries, authentic arms museums and my future university dominated the visit and speckle the following slideshow...

The highway rolled into the Middle Atlas' foothills, our third chain in as many days.

Farming Equipment was replaced by less-intrusive fair along the roads.

Moulay Idriss, overlooking the nearby Roman Ruins.

Volubulis: Roman Ruins NW of Fes

(Click here for more on Volubulis and Moulay Idriss)

The path up to Volubilis.

Part of the Basilica.

The remaining path up to the Tangier Gate.

Not to outshine the asparagus-like cactus, these flowers covered the grounds.

The public square and market area.

The city's old main arch. 

In the House of Hercules, a mural catalogues his 12 Feets of Strength.

One of the more preserved statues, also in the House of Hercules!

The Four Seasons Mosaic.

Fes: Morocco's Cultural and Religious Center

(Click here and here and here for more on Fes)

One of Fes' Many Fountains.

Part of the Old Medina and Cemetery.

The Medrasa Bou Inania, with its Minaret.

The Water Clock, out of commission since the 1500's.

The Small Tanneries.

If you can't take the smell, have some wintergreen "nana."

Most of the leather of the day was from goats.

The Wood-Workers' Alley was a new site; settled next to the big mosque, these pieces are produced for rental during weddings.

Inside the Oldest University in the World, the 9th Century Qorayine Mosque is now the Country's second-largest place of worship behind the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca.

Megan with some 15th century knight-less armor.

Dad providing "scale" upon mother's request at the Arms Museum.

Part of the refurbished display in the Moroccan section of the Arms Museum.

A saddle that any of us wished was mounted atop our camels a few days prior.

Relaxing atop the Borj Nord and Arms Museum, taking in the view of Fes' Old Medina.

Next to the Museum, the Merined Tombs host their own wildlife...

...More Baby Sheep.

Ifrane: The Country's Most Modern University Sits an Hour South of Fes

Ifrane's infamous Red, pitched Roofs.

Mom and Megan in front of Ifrane's Lion.

Ifrane in the Distance...

One trip left to Tangier and the north, and it concludes tomorrow!

Bessey Tour and Guide (Part 2 of 6)

Growing up, I didn't inherit a lot of my old man's interests.  A quiet guy who preferred to spend his days off sitting in cool autumn breezes waiting for whitetail deer to pass his way, my dad spent countless hours most other days pursuing his father's professional dream of building a tool and die business.  With one of my uncles, they started Bessey Tool & Die in 1988, and my dad's run the company since my grandfather's passing in 1996.

I'm described as many things, but "quiet" scarcely makes the list; hunting never took, and my choice of profession skewed from tool making.  As a result, there haven't been a lot of opportunities to share with my dad one of the traits that I think I inherited from him: my ability to plan and put something together.  Hopefully, he and the rest of my family enjoyed the two weeks I put together for them and don't need too much of a vacation from their vacation before they return to work on Tuesday!

If you ask me, the vacation ended in the north as well as it began in Rabat, with some pretty interesting moments in between.  Starting in the country's capital made a lot of sense, allowing for some rest and jet-lag recovery while easing my guests into my current hometown and Muslim culture.  Also, the city's calm nature might give them something to later compare Marrakesh's potential craziness.

The Rabat segment included a few familiar sites for followers of this blog.  The main highlights again included Chellah, The Tour Hassan and La Oudaya.  Complimenting them, drives past Parliament, the Royal Palace, National Library and Mohammed V University provided a glimpse of the current political and educational systems.  However, the introduction to driving in this country may have made a larger impact on my guests than any of these sites, as my sister describes it:

Being it our initial exposure to Morocco (aside from the altogether frightening drive with Dad from the airport)...I'm still surprised that we didn't A) knock a parent/child pair off a bike, or B) get crushed on both sides attempting those dastardly turn arounds.

After a much less terrifying drive (hopefully), our first stop was the ruins of Phoenician-found Chellah.  Later occupied by the Romans in 40 AD and then the Merenids in the 14th century, most of what remains today is from the latter.  Cats, storks and eels are today's inhabitants, so my animal-loving sister and mother enjoyed them almost as much as the blooming gardens.

Throughout Rabat, Marrakesh, Fes and Agadir, a different type of "purple haze" lines the streets.

On the Roman side, a few words from the unofficial guide.

The Merenid Minaret.  As my Sister, Megan, put it, "To my pleasure, Chellah, the Mausoleum, and the Tombs were right up my alley! Old, historic, and not too hectic, they were a smooth introduction to the vacation. Not too much to say here that you haven't said about the sights in the past - they were very cool and filled with sleepy stray cats!

One of the few remaining Roman artifacts not moved to the Archeological Museum.

Baby storks huddled in most nests in each of the large cities.

The myth is that if women want to bear child, they should feed eggs to the resident eels.  No one from our group must have been interested, as the one eel we saw wasn't biting on any of the dozen eggs it was fed.

The Tour Hassan was our second stop.  Built by the Almohads to resemble the Koutoubia minaret in Marrakesh, it was the site's prominent feature until the Mausoleum of Mohammed V was dedicated as the final resting place of the current monarchy's first king.

The minaret dominates the city's skyline as well as the country's Tomb of the Unknown Soldier resting at its base.

The Mausoleum's Ceiling: A Tremendous Display of Ornamentation.

On one side, Guards post in white; on the other, the horses and their mounts are adorned in brown.

The Beginning of Father's Photography.

The Sun was in full effect, requiring a stop at the "Local Drinking Fountain."

La Oudaya completed the first day's activities.  Also built by the Almohads, this 12th century kasbah is home to the city's oldest mosque as well as a small part of its population.  Adorned by a garden and offering a pleasant overlook of northern Sale, this area taught my mom and sister what happens when you're not assertive.

The Hand of Fatima adorns most entrances along the blue-painted alleys to ward off the Evil Eye.

Grandma Rose in front of some Garden Flowers.

Spring in Bloom.

"I didn't buy anything!" was the first thing my mom quipped to my dad as she and my sister were corralled to him by a couple of young henna artists who reportedly, "told us that they just wanted to see our beautiful hands," and then started stenciling artwork before anything drastic such as walking away could be done.  Welcome to Moroccan bargaining!  Megan adds: "I'd rather not get into the whole 'henna' debacle - but let me just say for the record that I'm way too nice to live in a country like Morocco!"

One of the tranquilly-pleasing Oudayan Alleys.  Megan agrees, "Oudaya was beautiful as well - the blue and white walls felt very appropriate for a town so close to the beach. It was interesting to see a town so different from what I'm used to in the USA, with the tight winding paths through the buildings (though it wouldn't be the first that we saw of that!)."

After a few hours, the initial exposure concluded and it was back to the apartment for some rest and preparation for the first - and biggest - trip of the vacation.  Spanning five days and including the most diversity of any part of the visit, Marrakesh and the desert would test some limits.  Until then, for more of Chellah, The Tour Hassan and La Oudaya, click here, and thanks, sis, for the comments!

Not to be dismissed but not finding a place in the overview, we now have "Our Hail of Bullets:"

• Home-cooked food has been missed, as I was reminded by sloppy joe's, egg and bacon breakfasts and brats.
• The tramway's open in Rabat!  After months of delays and undoubtedly years of planning and construction, the new public transportation not only looks good but also increases the time to travel along it by car tenfold.
• The Jazz Festival in Rabat is huge, playing in at least four alternate sites over the weekend.
• Rabat's main attractions (Chellah, the Tour Hassan and La'Oudaya) are not that interesting the fourth time around (as you may agree!).
• After my father's recent vehicular accident, navigating our vehicle in Morocco nearly gave him a heart attack, but he did great.
• No protests or demonstrations were witnessed, but a trash strike cluttered a couple alley ways toward the end of the trip.

For those interested in putting something together like this, I offer you my "Planning Factor of the Day:"

Putting Together an Itinerary: After a handful of emails elliciting destinations, I quickly found that my family decided to take two weeks to see the country for good reason - they wanted to see it all: the desert, coast, mountains and big cities dominated their responses.

The four mini-trips that I later decided on quickly began to come together in my head.  The first would stay in Rabat, be a low-key trip around the city's sites, allow for some jet-lag to pass and some acclimatization to occur.  The southern trip to Marrakesh and the desert next came to mind because it would be the most difficult and diverse, giving my guests a Moroccan "slap in the face" that would shock the senses and test their still-fresh physical limits.  Including the tourist city, a pass over Morocco's highest road as well as the desert, this trip would span a handful of days amidst diverse ethnic lines.

Requiring at least a day of rest afterward - and a shorter trip, I looked to Fes and the Middle Atlas for the second destination.  Here, the focus would be on historical Morocco and its cultural and religious center.  Further, the difference between Fes and Marrakesh would be highlighted, as the former's more laid-back environment and medina would contrast the latter's hectic pace and nightlife.  A stop to the country's most preserved Roman ruins would also expose another aspect of the country's history, while a visit to my future university would give them a glimpse into my future.

After another day of rest, the trip would conclude in the north, with stops to "The International City" of Tangier, one of Spain's African hamlets, Sebta, and the old Spanish protectorate's capital in Tetouan.  Later, a stop to Moulay Boussalham's bird sanctuary would be added to appease the nature - and boat - lovers' exposure to one of the country's overlooked sanctuaries.  The visit nearly went as planned, minus the stop in Tetouan, which was cut due to a lack of time and desire to get back to Rabat and pack for the next day's early flight.