Citizens of the World visit the Pub and the Mosque

Play it again, Sam!

In 1943, an unbelievably timely tale set in northwest Africa told the story of an exiled American running the most popular nightspot in town.  After the cynical ex-patriot comes into possession of two valuable letters of transit, trouble ensues as an underground leader requests them, a German deputy seeks to stop him and a French police captain tries to hustle the lot of them for his benefit.  And then there was Ilsa...


More unbelievably is that "Casablanca" only won three Academy Awards while it still stands the test of time arguably better than any other American film since.  Despite being filmed in the US and more accurately depicting Tangier, the movie has made its mark on the city for which it was named.  

Overlooking the port, Rick's is open from 12 - 3 and 6 - 1.

Opened seven years ago in an old mansion on the outskirts of the economic capital's tiny old medina, "Rick's Cafe" is a worthy throwback to Rick Blaine's old pub, despite lacking some of the original's charm.  Sitting between Sam's piano and Sascha's bar for lunch earlier today, traditionally-adorned waiters and waitresses served us western grub as a quiet middle-aged woman and an even quieter Asian couple replaced nefarious German military governors and flip-flopping Frenchmen.

Three stories of movie-inspired furniture and accouterments adorn the restaurant; here, the middle of the lobby raises to the roof.

Though the pub wasn't exactly jumping with activity, I enjoyed my chicken salad, shrimp and black noodles as "As Time Goes By" whispered through the walls and the over-staffed lobby waited for some work.  Afterward, a free postcard greeted us on the way out, and I was reminded of one of the film's quips as we began our walk to the Hassan II Mosque...

Major Strasser: What is your nationality?  

Rick: I'm a drunkard. 

Captain Renault: That makes Rick a citizen of the world. 

25,000 Muslims can pray indoors while another 80,000 are able to pray outside.  

The former king's project was built between 1987 and 1993 with government funds and one of the country's more controversial tax initiatives.  When finished, it was the second-largest religious building in the world after the mosque in Mecca, sprawling over almost a million square feet.

Over 35,000 craftsmen labored on the mosque.

With two-thirds of the mosque extended over the sea (in tribute to one of the Qoran's surras), the mosque is home to the largest minaret in world.  Measuring at 200m tall (over two football fields), the minaret is adorned with two laser beams that extend 35 km (20 miles) in the direction of Mecca after dusk.

After a 30-minute walk from the train station, we finally reached the mosque that appeared to never arrive. 

Getting inside wasn't difficult, as tours are given four times a day Monday through Saturday.  This mosque is one of a country's few religious sites that allows non-Muslims entry into its gigantic interior.  Composed of an underground hammam, multiple ablution rooms as well as giant prayer halls, the structure's ornamentation is only outdone by its massive scale.

Part of the Hammam, which is not actually used for traditional bathing.

41 Fountains fill one part of the Ablution Room, each capable of resting 8 Muslim backsides as they scrub feet and hands.

Though conspicuously empty of any furniture, the main prayer hall measures 200m long by 100m, with a central fountain that runs the length of its polished floor under a sliding dome roof that can be opened to air out a full house and complete the triumvirate of earth, water and air.

The Length of the Main Prayer Hall

The Prayer Hall Looking out to the Sea.

In the Center, the Imam's "Pulpit," Facing Mecca.

Underneath one of the Women's Galleries, capable of accommodating 5,000 women.

Throughout the tour, we didn't see most of the mosque's 41 fountains, 56 chandeliers or 360 interior loud speakers, but our guide pointed out the main water path running along the prayer hall's center, a handful of the Venician-made light fixtures and the granite columns that tactfully hid the speaker boxes.

Underneath the Minaret, One of Italy's Chandeliers.

Diagonally, a Ceder-made Stairwell raises to the Women's Prayer Hall.

Some of that Agadir Granite with one of the rare examples of painted (and not carved) ornamentation.

Back outside, we were informed that less than 20,000 devoted typically attend the hour-long Friday service, but that number jumps to about 100,000 daily during Ramadan for services three times as long.

One of the Iron Doors lining the Mosque's Exterior.

Another set of Doors.

This was my second time to the mosque but first inside it.  Walking through the cavernous interior, I couldn't help but reflect on a couple of Ghent's huge cathedrals and draw comparisons, or lack thereof.  The mosque held nothing inside; the cathedrals statues, pews, pulpits, organs and more.  Here, the structure was grand; there, the aforementioned articles.  Above the pews, a priest stands between you and God while those statues invite sideways peeks; kneeling above the granite here, one could safely say there's nothing between you and Him but your conversation.

If you're in the area and want to make a trip, you can do so between Monday and Saturday at 9, 10, 11 and 3.  Cost is 120 MAD for adults, 60 MAD for Moroccans/adult students and 30 MAD for students.  Tickets and the reception is located on the southern end of the complex down a flight of stairs.

Something "Off" in Casablanca

Casablanca.  This city is different from any other large city in Morocco.  Beautiful and striking in its own way, it rounds out the country's big city dynamic: Fes is culture, Rabat is government, Marrakesh is tourism and the "gateway" to the mountains and Sahara and Casablanca is business and commercialism.  But there was something "off" about it that separated it from the other cities just as equally...

It's bigger than all of them but has the smallest old medina.  Nestled between the port and central downtown, it looks like it was inserted after expansion rather than beginning the city's footprint centuries ago.  But that wasn't it.

United Nations Place at the Union of the "Old" and "New" Medinas

Unlike the others, business appears to overshadow everything else.  Since most of the city is "new" and built for commerce, there wasn't a lot to see by means of culture save the former King's giant mosque, the Jewish Museum and the Art Show at the Ville de Arts.  Though less significant than the landmarks in other cities, this wasn't what was "off" either...

Built from 1980 to 1993, this is the third largest Mosque in the world behind Mecca and Medina.  Able to hold 25,000 Muslims inside and another 80,000 outside, the Mosque's Minaret is the tallest structure in the country and points a huge laser in the direction of Mecca after dusk.

After going through four cab drivers (none of whom knew the location of the museum), I had the Jewish Museum all to myself.  Set in a small, southern quartier, the only Jewish Museum in the Islamic World highlighted the Synagogues, Mellahs, Cemeteries and Jewish Leaders across Morocco.  

 The Jameel Exhibit from 2009 was displayed at the Villa de Arts Museum.  Works from more than ten artists included rings, type paper, a wall panel and a corner wall of photography.  Again I am the only one inside it's renovated building, 

The beach front offers rows of American and European-style fitness clubs along the Ain Diab coast, giving the city's youth a place to flaunt their newest clothes and see a movie.  Though more European than any place else, this wasn't it either...

The beach at Ain Diab, fitness clubs, the Megarama cinema and the Hank Lighthouse

What was "off" with this city was that everything had the potential to be perfect, but none of it was.  There was always something slightly askew just about everywhere.  In all the places I visited, I was immediately struck with a scenic site or exquisite structure that needed capturing.  But, inevitably, something in the shot - a bum, trash, rubble - required it to be cropped or re-shot.

Above: Kids playing soccer on the beach - not bad.  Below: Same shot with less zoom...and more trash / rubble in the foreground

Above: The Hassan II Mosque, dominating Casa's skyline.  Below: 10 feet to the left, the Mosque shares the shot with an unsuspecting - but friendly - local

 Above: One of the Palm-lined boulevards in the new medina - quite trendy.  Below: Inside the fountain - quite trashy.

Casa isn't the only city in Morocco to have these minor inconveniences.  Like most places I've visited, a lack of public responsibility and a lower standard of communal upkeep have detracted from the country's scenery.  For some odd reason though, I just seemed to notice it more this day.

More to come from this unique city in the future.  Like Tangier (the true inspiration behind the movie Casablanca), I've only scratched the surface and look forward to digging deeper in due time.