The Middle Atlas: Volubulis, Fes and Ifrane (Part 5 of 6)

The short trip to Fes was our second - and least time consuming - drive.  Much needed after our five-day southern affair, the smooth, fast highway from Rabat to Fes was as much a welcome change of pace as it was a change of sites.  Roman ruins, tanneries, authentic arms museums and my future university dominated the visit and speckle the following slideshow...

The highway rolled into the Middle Atlas' foothills, our third chain in as many days.

Farming Equipment was replaced by less-intrusive fair along the roads.

Moulay Idriss, overlooking the nearby Roman Ruins.

Volubulis: Roman Ruins NW of Fes

(Click here for more on Volubulis and Moulay Idriss)

The path up to Volubilis.

Part of the Basilica.

The remaining path up to the Tangier Gate.

Not to outshine the asparagus-like cactus, these flowers covered the grounds.

The public square and market area.

The city's old main arch. 

In the House of Hercules, a mural catalogues his 12 Feets of Strength.

One of the more preserved statues, also in the House of Hercules!

The Four Seasons Mosaic.

Fes: Morocco's Cultural and Religious Center

(Click here and here and here for more on Fes)

One of Fes' Many Fountains.

Part of the Old Medina and Cemetery.

The Medrasa Bou Inania, with its Minaret.

The Water Clock, out of commission since the 1500's.

The Small Tanneries.

If you can't take the smell, have some wintergreen "nana."

Most of the leather of the day was from goats.

The Wood-Workers' Alley was a new site; settled next to the big mosque, these pieces are produced for rental during weddings.

Inside the Oldest University in the World, the 9th Century Qorayine Mosque is now the Country's second-largest place of worship behind the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca.

Megan with some 15th century knight-less armor.

Dad providing "scale" upon mother's request at the Arms Museum.

Part of the refurbished display in the Moroccan section of the Arms Museum.

A saddle that any of us wished was mounted atop our camels a few days prior.

Relaxing atop the Borj Nord and Arms Museum, taking in the view of Fes' Old Medina.

Next to the Museum, the Merined Tombs host their own wildlife...

...More Baby Sheep.

Ifrane: The Country's Most Modern University Sits an Hour South of Fes

Ifrane's infamous Red, pitched Roofs.

Mom and Megan in front of Ifrane's Lion.

Ifrane in the Distance...

One trip left to Tangier and the north, and it concludes tomorrow!

Worth its Weight in Gold (Part 1 of 6)

Silence is golden.  I can't remember the first time I heard the expression or the last time I've used it, but it seems appropriate to describe the feeling of being "off-line" over the past couple weeks.  The reason: I've spent the past fourteen days with the people most important to me over the years (save my brother and my woman): my family.

Day One of the Moroccan Vacation: (from left) Al, Grandma, Mom, Dad, Megan

The six of us able to make the trip kept busy seeing sites new and old courtesy of a well-used rental van and strategically-place "Ibis" hotels and started to familiarize with Morocco by guidebook, well-intentioned guides, other tourists and helpful locals across the country.  Broken into four mini-tours to the country's capital, south, middle and northern areas, my family's orientation to "my second country" was a compilation of contrasts that mirrored the country itself.

Part of the Rif Mountains towering over the Mediterranean.

Between rumbling up and down four different mountain ranges and cruising along two different coasts, we were drenched in cold rain atop camel while exiting the desert and baked under an unrelenting sun during a bird-watching boat ride.  Locals brushed by us in unending waves by foot and atop motor scooter and donkey cart one day while only waves of golden sand scurried by us another.  Good food and bad, smooth drives and treacherous river crossings met us along the way.

One of the First Trucks willing to forge the gushing spillway we later crossed atop a Flatbed Wrecker.

Our schedule was ambitious (as you'll see shortly), and I'm proud of the way my guests kept open and interested minds amidst the different culture and traditions they all experienced for the first time.  But, if I've taken anything away from this trip, its a little motivation after seeing my grandmother and her husband, Al, make it through every part of the visit.

"The Silvers" (as they were affectionately referred to), looking for signs of Hercules in his rumored Grotto.

If I even make it to my eighties, I hope to just continue breathing, hold my bowels and get some visits from the people in my life, much less travel across an ocean, hop on a camel for four hours, climb countless kasbah stairs and sit in the back (back) seat of a broken-in, manual van for ten days (and close to forty hours).  Thanks for the inspiration you two - you did great!

In a nutshell, here's what we did and what you can look forward to in the next few postings!  The format is: Trip Number/Day, City: Sites or Brief Description.

1/1, Rabat: Chellah, The Hassan Mausoleum, Tombs of Hassan II and Mohammad V, Oudaya.

2/2-3, Marrakesh: Jamaa L'Fna, Koutoubia Mosque, Museum of Marrakesh, Ali Ben Youssef Madrasa, Kouba Ba'adin, Carriage Ride, Majorelle Gardens, Carriage Ride, Saadian Tombs.

2/3, Tizi n'Tichka: Drove over the Highest Mountain Pass in Morocco.

2/3, Ait Benhaddou: Walked up to the Kasbah from Gladiator, Jewel of the Nile, Lawrence of Arabia, Jesus of Nazareth, and others.

2/3-4, Ourzazate: Atlas Studio Productions Tour, Movie Museum of Morocco, Kasbah Taourirt from Star Wars.

2/4, Dra'a Valley: Towns of Agdz, Zagora (52 Days to Timbuktu), Palm Tree Wadis and Rolling Mountains.

2/4-5, M'Hamid: Erg Chigaga Desert and Camel Tour.

2/5, Tazenakh: River Crossing atop Flatbed Wrecker.

2/5-6, Agadir: Beach, Port, Saadian Kasbah and City Overlook.

2/6, Essaouira: Beach, Mogador Island.

2/6, Al-Jedida: Coast (drove thru only).

3/8, Volubilis: Largest and most Preserved Roman Ruins in Morocco.

3/8, Meknes: Imperial City under Moulay Ismail (drove thru only).

3/8-9, Fes: Bab Bajloud, The Old Medina, Cafe Clock, The Water Clock, The Bou Inania Medrasa, The Art d'Bronze, The Wood Workers' Alley, The Small Tanneries, The Metal Workers' Alley, The Qaraoiyn Mosque, David and Gaelle's Place, The Barj Nord and Weapons Museum, The Merined Tombs.

3/9, Ifrane: Al-Akhawayn Universtiy, The Stone Lion.

4/11, Moulay Boussalham: Merja Zerga Bird Sanctuary.

4/11-12, Tangier: Small Port, Cap Spartel, Grotto of Hercules, Hafa Cafe, Grand Socco.

4/12, Sebta (Spain): Spanish Fort, Plaza of Africa, House of the Dragons.

4/12, Tetouan: Old Spanish Capital (drove thru only).

Given this itinerary and the limited number of guides used throughout it, I consider myself "tour-qualified."  Feel free to make a trip over here and see this great country for yourself!

Three Months in the Rear View

A quarter of my first year abroad has passed, and it did so slower than I imagined.  For all that I've heard about how time flies and the two and a half years "will pass before you know it," I have to admit that the first three months haven't felt like it.  I suppose this is the first point of my quarterly review.

For the remainder of this post, I'll take a look at a few of my initial goals and stand them up against how they've transitioned from "planning" to "doing."  These goals regard language proficiency, travel, socialization (meeting people), academics (understanding national and regional politics and history) and my profession (keeping up with being an Army officer).

These initial three months were the first of two "unstructured" quarters prior to beginning my advanced studies at a Moroccan university.  No set timelines; no bosses; just me making the most of my time abroad.  Prior to beginning this unchartered period, my goals were limited, focusing on language proficiency, traveling and socialization.

More specifically, I wanted to become familiar with the local dialect, continue my understanding of Arabic and travel around the country (and part of Europe) to see the cultures and begin interacting with people.  During this time, however, I took stock of my unique situation and set two more goals.

First, I added an academic goal: Understand the local and regional history and current political climate in order to assist my transition to the university in the fall.  Second, and professionally speaking, I sought to get back in shape.  Though neither of these were ground-breaking given my situation, I've structured them a little more than originally intended and feel they warrant a little attention.

Bottom line: I don't feel that I've met my language goals; however, I think I've met or exceeded my travel, socialization, academic and professional goals.

(1) Language proficiency has been difficult.  Some of this has been self-induced; some of it has been a result of this unique country and my prior training.  At the onset, I wanted to sustain my level of Arabic proficiency, begin to understand the local dialect (Darija) and begin to familiarize myself with French.  I've done none of them to the level I wanted.

On my own accord, I've not sought opportunities to practice speaking Arabic with the locals as much as I could.  To keep up the speaking part of my language proficiency, I've tended to predominantly speak with cab drivers, restaurant staff and private instructors.  Having my own vehicle has limited my exposure to the first set while my desire to get back in shape (and subsequently diet) has curbed the number of the second group.  Not wanting to pay out of pocket for private instruction has subsequently decreased the third set.  This hasn't been by design or all-inclusive.  I've improved my speaking abilities in some areas, such as fluency and pronunciation; however, my vocabulary has decreased.  If your reading this as a future scholar and language is your most important goal, seek out like-minded local nationals more vigilantly than I have!

Regarding the situation, it's just been difficult to find people with whom to speak in Arabic.  No one in the streets appears to speak it unless they're making fun of a news broadcast or doing their equivalent to our snobby British accent.  Darija or French are the staples but have been a bridge too far for me to comprehend up to this point.  With my shrinking Arabic vocabulary, I've decided not to pursue learning them after my brief four-week Darija orientation (which was still quite helpful).  Future scholars may benefit from having a basic understanding of the dialect prior to arriving in an Arab country.

In terms of prior training, I don't believe that the program of instruction in Monterey was most beneficial for future foreign area officers or those studying abroad.  There are numerous reasons, but the primary one is the lack of emphasis on speaking that I encountered.  From my estimate, the course was primarily designed not for the speaker but for the linguist, who requires a different skill set.  Though a great course for the linguist, I would recommend that future scholars study Arabic in a different setting prior to beginning their time abroad, if possible.

(2) Traveling has been my highest priority and the one goal that I believe that I've met thus far.  For the first month, I wanted to be familiar with my host city, Rabat.  Complete.  For the second month, I wanted to travel to each corner of the country and see the big cities.  With the exceptions of two corners: complete.  For the third month, the goal was to branch to Europe and revisit Moroccan areas of interest.  Complete.

There are two causes for this high priority.  First, I prefer to do and experience rather than read and theorize.  Why read about these places when you can go to them?  Second, I've not traveled a lot and feel the NEED to get out there.  Not having any travel to Africa or Europe under my belt prior to this experience aside from a short time spent in Germany has made the decision to travel all the easier.  Further, this "unstructured" time is sandwiched between long periods spent "in the books," making the option to travel more guilt-free.

(3) The socialization goal has been a little trickier to gage.  As a rough estimate, I've had mixed successes with getting to know people and establish lasting relationships.  With American and European ex-patriots, I've had more success than anticipated.  It's been easy to find and get to know the various flavors of fellows, travelers and workers here in Rabat.  Most fascinating is the range of motivations and goals that have brought them here.

Less successful, as I've alluded to before, has been my ability to meet locals with whom I've been able to maintain relationships.  Reasons include my irregular schedule, the Arabic / dialect divide and a general common interest gap.  At this point, however, I'm not extremely worried because I've begun reaching out a little more and only see my affiliation growing with local groups over the summer.  Further, the university will provide a common setting for group interaction in the fall.

(4) Regarding my new-found academic goal, I feel that my written and reading language proficiency, travel and this blog have assisted me in obtaining it over the past couple of months.  The first two factors go hand-in-hand with learning the political and historical nuances of this nation and the region.  Being able to read the news and books in Arabic has certainly opened doors to understanding another perspective while being able to visit historical and cultural places provides invaluable context and experiences that tend to stick a little longer than words on paper.

However, the biggest factor that's helped me in this respect has been this blog.  Though I only started recently, I've used the bottom portion of my "scroll" to capture the satellite or internet news, articles from a local periodical and thoughts about the books I'm currently reading.  After posting, I save them to my archives for future use.

The blog has created a forum in which to capture the thoughts; hopefully, the archives save me a little time when I begin my studies in the fall.  Combined, they've given me a larger sense of purpose than self-knowledge: sharing a different perspective with you.  How does the Arab or international media view a particular event?  What are some national concerns outside of America?  How do the Arabs view the crusades?  Though less interesting than visiting Fes or escaping monkeys in Marrakesh's Jamaa el-Fna, they're an important part of my experience.

(5) Another important part of my experience - and career - happens to be my physical fitness.  Fortuitously enough, one of my classmates has provided me a great opportunity to get back in shape as well as contribute to a worthy cause.  As a result, I've re-prioritized my fitness goals a little earlier than I expected by getting back into "marathon shape."

Though I don't want to get into the particulars just yet (can you sense a blog about this later?), my goal has been to finish a 54-mile ultra-marathon in June and raise $2000 to assist Team Red, White and Blue provide advocates to wounded warriors and assist their transition from the war-front to the home-front (donate here).  Given this worthy cause, it's been easy to swap Marlboro's and fatty Tajines for a heart rate monitor and over twenty miles a week in running shoes.  My transition back to the Infantry in a couple years should benefit from this as well!

This was a different approach from my first month's review and will likely continue on a quarterly basis.  If I missed anything or you'd like more specifics, let me know and I'll do my best to oblige.  Until then, you'll hear from me after I explore one of my previously non-visited corners!

A Tomb with a View (Part 4 of 4)

A Tomb with a View

The last leg of this past week's journey was to my favorite Imperial city, Fes, and my future home of Ifrane.  In previous accounts of my trips to Fes (click here and here), I already covered most of what we did in our two short days in the old city.  Further - and unlike Marrakesh - I didn't come away with many more profound thoughts (though I did come away with some profound blisters from new shoes). However, two new sites added to my already gleaming perception of the city: The Merinid Tombs and The Borj Nord Kasbah and Weapons Museum.

More Goats than Tombs

The Fortress

A trip to Fes needs to include a trip up the northwestern foothills and the two aforementioned sites.  Why?  The view.  After a handful of visits now, I've seen a couple panoramic views of the old city from riad terraces; they were pretty nice.  To be honest, they were pretty close to the views from the hills I'm currently trying to promote.  But, there's a little something more to the northwest view.

If you start your trip from the old medina to the tombs, two things happen.  First, your travel contrasts.  You begin in crowded alleys, dodging the "baraka" chants of donkey pushers while making futile attempts at orienting your frustratingly small - and incomplete...and inaccurate - map to the plastered maze that you're trying to exit.  Finding that nearest exit door to the outside world is a worthy goal and pretty easy to communicate to the locals as you wind and snake your way towards it.  Once you make it to the other side of your door, the open road to the tombs greets you with suddenly fresher air, modest views of the urban forest you just exited and agricultural, mountain plains to the north.

A Walk Up to the Clouds

Second, you work up a sweat.  Regardless of where you start, your destination is uphill and an honest walk is required to claim your prize.  Someone once told me that nothing's worth it unless you work for it.  This holds true for the view from the tombs.  Most people can walk up the stairs of their resorts for a view without breaking a sweat.  Minutes later, they lose some appreciation for it (guilty!).  Having to make a 20-minute walk uphill prolongs the appreciation...and the experience.

To the Tombs!  The Merinid Tombs were built in the 16th century and are now nothing more than a couple of ruined structures (all that walking for this?!).  Unlike the Saadian Tombs in Marrakesh, time, weather and most likely plunderers have taken their toll on the site.  No marked graves remain, and no other tourists bumped our elbows during the trip.  We enjoyed our view of the oldest part of the city's defense alone.

The Tour Guide Taking a Break

After a short walk to the Barj Nord Kasbah, we enjoyed what I consider the best museum I've seen in Morocco, the Museum of Arms.  Built in 1582 by the Saadian's, the fortress once defended and controlled the entire city.  Today, more than 1,000 pieces of weaponry are chronologically exhibited in 16 rooms.  Recently renovated after its 1963 grand opening, the museum boasts informative display markers that are written in both Arabic and French (unlike most other museums, which are predominantly in French only).

"Benadiq" (Rifles) 

Come Back with your Shield...or on it! 

 Learning...Again

Ow, my feet!

After a prolonged break atop the fortress' roof, we collected our things and got a cab to Ifrane some 45 minutes down the road.  The city was crisply cool during our arrival despite a large sun floating overhead.  Shortly after we exited our chariot, we met with a colleague for lunch and then toured the tiny Swiss stand-in, passing by my future university and the town's out-of-place villas.

 The University

The Duck Pond

 Someone hamming it up in front of Ifrane's Lion...

Ok...someone else hamming it up.

Though I've skipped some points and excluded some of the photos rolling along the slide shows, that concludes our ten good days.  Thank you, Azeezatie, for the pix, and I hope you enjoyed catching up with us!

My Ten Best Days (Part 1 of 4)

I've been conspicuously silent for the past week and a half for good reason.  My girl came to visit Morocco for the first time and deserved my full attention after her arrival.  Sadly, Raven's departure has come as quickly as each of our ten days together passed.  However, I think we made the most of our time as I rediscovered some old haunts and introduced more to her.  This is part one of four, with links and pictures purposely abandoned but forthcoming in the later installments.

Our time started at the Rabat airport with first looks that confirmed what we knew, what we wanted and what we knew we wanted.  That evening began with a bottle of wine and ended as our first night together.  In between, we met some new friends and got to be a couple in Rabat for the first time.

The next morning, we visited Rabat's sites after a light breakfast.  The trip started at Chellah, proceeded to the Mausoleum and ended with a walk through the souq to La Oudaya, the coast and a market.  We ended our sunny tour by driving past Parliament, the Royal Palace and the National Library.  At dusk, we made fajitas and enjoyed dinner on the rooftop overlooking the ocean.  Afterwards, we concluded the evening by watching one of Raven's favorites, Casablanca.

After the sun rose, we caught a train to swanky Marrakech.  Upon arriving in its warmth, we checked into luxury at Riad Kniza, planned our two days and departed into the old medina.  Along the way, we visited some craft shops en route to the evening's destinations.  Leaving them empty-handed, we began our tour of the Koubba Ba'Adiyn, the nearby (and unimpressive) Marrakech Museum and its neighbor, the ultra-impressive Ben Youssif Madrasa before making some purchases in the spice cafe.

From there, we had our senses assaulted at the Jemaa el-Fna.  Between super-sweet orange juice, spicy light meals at the food stalls, slimy snake photos and frustrating attempts at "fishing for soda," we couldn't take anymore, began our return by the Koutoubia Mosque and arrived to the riad with enough time to prepare for Morocco's version of Medieval Times, Chez Ali.  Through three straight hours of food and drink, the experience was a continous theater of song, dance and spectacle.  From a handful of cultural musical performances to the concluding fantasia, our eyes and ears were never given a reprieve from Ali's take on Moroccan culture.  Thankfully, we had a bottle of wine to help soften the blow!

Beginning too early the next morning, we woke for a huge breakfast atop the riad, complete with pastries, a small arsenal of fruit and more jams than I could shake my knife (at).  Immediately after, we met our guide with full bellies and hungry minds.  Our first stop was to the Koutoubia Mosque, where we learned more about the history of Morocco than of the mosque.  Next, we visited the kasbah and the Saadian Tombs, an elaborate grave commemorating 500 years of their dynasty.  Next was a trip through the Jewish Mellah followed by stops at the Bahia Palace and the Dar Si Said Museum.  After a couple hours between the two of them, we bid adieu to our know-it-all guide and made our way back to the Koutobia and Mamounia Gardens to take in a little peace and quiet before beginning our journey out of the "tourists' city."

By early evening, we were in El-Jadida's Mozagen Resort some two hours northwest of Marrakech.  A western-styled casino resort more typical of Las Vegas than even moderate Morroco, the Mozagen gave us two days of traditional spring break activities as well as horseback riding, spa treatment and four types of gourmet restaurants.  We dined Moroccan the first night, enjoying the non-Moroccan subtleties of the huge resort.

After an expansive breakfast the next morning, I read next to the pool as Raven received a well-deserved spa treatment; upon her return, we continued at the pool for most of the afternoon, chatting about almost everything under the bright sun before leaving for a horseback session.  Seafood for the second evening's dinner was followed by losing plenty of Dirhams in little time at the casino.

Leaving the resort early the next day, we returned to Rabat by mid-afternoon, took a walk around my favorite jogging path, did some shopping, made dinner and watched a movie before unwinding for the evening.  An unexpected "Embassy day" followed some more shopping the next day, as acquaintances old and new were rekindled at a couple informal events.  Drinks and dinner complimented conversations both light and professional through the evening.

There was little rest for the travelers the next morning.  After a late-morning train departure, we arrived in Fes in time to get lost around its old medina for a few hours.  Along the way, we meandered by the Karaouiyine Mosque, the Tanners' Quarter, Bou Inania Madrasa, Dar el-Batha Museum, Moulay Idriss University, the Kasbah, the Water Clock and Cafe Clock.  By 8:00 PM, our appetites were more than worked up for a dinner date with friends, Gaelle and David.  Through  Tagine and wine, we enjoyed a casual night of catching up, conversing and singing (yes non-believers, I sang).  Walking back to our riad through deserted medina alleys brought the evening to a peaceful close.

A gorgeous breakfast brought the next morning to a fruitful opening.  After, we set afoot up the city's western hills to their two prominent affects, the Merinid Tombs and the Borj Nord Museum of Arms.  Under a still sun and between gusting winds, we could finally separate the old city's urban forrest of endless shops, alleys and dead-ends from its "trees."

A mid-day taxi then brought us to Ifrane, where we met with more friends, stopped by my future university and strolled through the town's tidy, quiet streets.  Another taxi returned us to Meknes and an evening train back to Rabat.

With the evening's time again stolen from us, our final morning arrived sooner then desired.  It was time for another trip.  This time, unfortunately, the day's mode of transport returned to plane from train and the number of tickets halved from two to one, bringing an end to my best ten days...

Fes: Sights and Sensations from a Day at the "Clock"

My second day in the country's cultural capital was spent learning how to cook Moroccan dishes at one of its newer attractions, Cafe Clock.  Run by a couple of wild-eyed foreigners for the past few years, the Cafe Clock is centrally-located near the old medina's main entrance and serves a mix of local and foreign dishes.  

I wanted to learn how to cook and was joined by a small group of American tourists - and new friends - for the day.  Beginning mid-morning, we picked our dishes from a large menu and started the day.  Beginning with a shopping tour of the market, we spent about eight hours between the streets of the souq (market) and the kitchen.  By the end of the day, we prepared and enjoyed zalouk salad, harira soup, vegetable tajine, chicken couscous, almond cookies and cheesecake (ok, we didn't make the cheesecake).  After eating some of the tajine, my stomach said "no more," but my eyes said "not a problem" and I left about five pounds heavier than I arrived!  

Below are a few pictures with some of their accompanying sensations.

 The Cooking Group: Inviting, Lively, Humorous, Gracious

The Tour and Jleel (our interpretor for the day) with a bowl of "milk:" Smart, Funny, Prankster

The Mixing Shop (nuts and meat): Traditional, Clean, Foreign

The Butcher: Haj (religious), Halal (culturally acceptable) 

The Rose Water Kiosk: Fragrant and Under Young Management 

The Olive Shop: Fresh, All-Purpose, Confusing 

Lunch (part 1): Unaware, Foolish (fly away!) 

Lunch (part 2): Quick, Painless, Boiled, Fresh 

 The Camel Butcher (note the head): Aromatic, Salty, Busy

 The Souq: Busy, Noisy, Multi-Cultural

The Vegetable Market: Open, Warm, Sunny, Organic 

Our Vegetable Stand: Cheap, Hassle-Free

Bab (gate) of the Kasbah: Prohibited, Historic 

 The Fish Market: Seasonal, Ripe, Caught Today

"Mul Hanut" (shop owner) of one of the Stands: Hard Bargainer, Furry, Course Tongue 

 Peeling Potatoes for the First Time in my Career: Confused, Private

 Our Chef, Shadiya: Professional, Great Smile, Helpful, Allows Clients to Spoil their Appetites

 The Kitchen from Above: Fragrant, Cool, Organized

 Mixing Dough for the Cookies: Sticky, Messy, Should've Oiled Hands Beforehand...

 Can't...Clean...Hands...

 Couscous Steam and Cookies: Vegetables, Warm, Spicy

 The Public Furnace (in go our cookies): Hot, Communal, Ancient

 Waiting for the Cookies with Abdullah, Raheem, Jalal, Nori and Abdul Raheem

 Skipping out on Duties with Max: Lively Co-Owner who rode the "Marrakesh Express" more than once in the '70's

 Jan (Michigan) Wondering how any of us could have room to eat the Vegetable Tajine: Spicy, Wholesome, Filling

The Cheesecake...Extra Belt Adjustment please!  Rich, Delicious, Fruity

You have my apologies for not including pictures of the Zalouk Salad

Hareera Soup

or the Couscous.  

Please accept the substitute pictures as appropriate stand-ins!