Half a Year in Arab Time

Throughout my 3 1/2 years spent in Islamic countries, one expression has entered my ears more than any other except "Enshallah" (God willing).  This oft-used phrase is "Arab time."  Embraced by many of my Arab counterparts, I typically welcome it with a grain of salt, as it implies that minutes, hours, days, etc last just a little longer on an Arab watch than on my Timex.

When I hear the mention of this "phenomenon," I know to expect my Arab counterparts will be late for our meeting or take a little longer to get something done.  Three "western days" equate to five "Arab days," my tanned buddies have been eager to inform me.  It's a little frustrating at times, but those frustrations haven't shown up too often during this, my most recent foray overseas.

So, in the spirit of "Arab Time" (and admittedly writing this report a little late), I won't hesitate to claim this report covers my first six months rather than the seven it truly represents.  It's time again for a little reflection, as I've done at the 1-week, 1-month and 3-month marks of my time in Morocco.  Today, I'll take a look at some of the goals that I've set for my time here and how I think I'm doing at obtaining them.  I classify each as mid-range goals, as I have about two years to accomplish them, and this is the last you'll hear of them until the one-year mark...western time (Enshallah).

Broadly derived from the Olmsted Foundation's mission statement, my goals are to (1) achieve fluency in Arabic, (2) obtain a graduate degree from Al Akhawayn University, (3) understand Moroccan cultures, and (4) return to the Army better equipped to serve as an Infantry Field Grade Officer.  So, today I ask, "Am I off to a good beginning?"  Using a scale from 1 to 10 (1 being the worst), I'll use a loose "issue, discussion, recommendation" format that hopefully provides a reference point to current and future scholars as well as some general information for those of you who are just plain interested or curious.

1.  Achieve Fluency in Arabic - 5 / 10.  This is my lowest score, and I don't know if I'm being hard on myself, the deck's slightly stacked against me or I'm just not working hard enough - probably a little of each.  Regardless, this is the "big one," and I think I need to do three things to complete it: (1) Carry on conversations in Arabic with locals about most non-technical subjects, (2) Watch or listen to Arabic news and standard programming while understanding about 75% of the details, and (3) Read and write in Arabic at a high-school level.

Feeling confident about Goal #1's start has been difficult.  Regarding the first sub-point, it's been rough-going to practice a true "give-and-take" conversation exclusively in Modern Standard Arabic (MSA).  Though a few reasons exist, the most prescient is that some Moroccans actually scoff at speaking in anything other than French or dialect.  Not able to understand either, this has made it difficult to engage in meaningful conversations with the majority of the population.  A few of my friends make a good effort to communicate only in MSA, but unfortunately their efforts are few and far between.  Fortunately, I anticipate this situation will significantly improve when I begin classes in September.

I feel more confident in my ability to do the second and third sub-tasks due to a couple factors.  Not involving "speaking," they are more individual in nature and involve skills in which I have excelled since beginning my studies almost two years ago.  First, regarding listening, I have plenty of opportunities to hear MSA and attempt to understand high-level subjects, as there is no shortage of Arab news channels and programming finding their way through my satellite receivers.  Though some of them are broadcast in Egyptian, Iraqi and Syrian dialect, the majority are exclusively in MSA.  These channels have been free as well since my landlords have "included" satellite payment in the rent.  Another asset has been the radio; typically used only during long road trips, Moroccan radio is about 50/50 MSA and typically covers relevant regional and national news.

The last part - reading and writing - has been an individual endeavor where I've relyed on weekly circulars and old DLI textbooks to continue improving my skills (yes, nunchuck skills).  With the various dictionaries and Google translate assisting this effort, it was my strength in California and remains the strongest of the three sub-tasks thus far in Ifrane.  Further, the periodicals are cheap (usually costing $1.50) and assist my familiarization with the Moroccan government and its current political climate.

Recommendations / "Improves:" Speak daily with locals and convince them to speak in MSA.  I've not done this enough, and my conversations have continued to revolve around a few familiar topics.  Find a one-on-one tutor and meet with him or her weekly, focusing on verbal communication.  Again, I've not done this and probably could've benefited from it.

2.  Obtain a Graduate Degree from Al Akhawayn University - 8 / 10.  Though I haven't started my first class yet, I've completed all admissions requirements and only await orientation to begin in a few weeks.  Until then, a few extracurriculars have helped while a few have been missed but could have been pursued.  First, I've kept in contact with my primary adviser throughout the past year and a half.  Though this contact has been limited, I believe that it's kept me on course with admissions requirements and reading recommendations that will assist me once I begin my classes.

These recommendations lead me to my one acknowledged negative, as I've not been able to access them yet.  Therefore, his advice remains only another task on the "to-do" list.  Back on a positive note, the Office of International Outreach has been invaluable in providing student information through Facebook, covering everything from arrival coordination to first-year recommendations.

Recommendations / Improves: Maintain an active dialogue with three university sections: Admissions, International Outreach (if available) and your future department.  Arrive at your host country with a good computer able to access professional and academic resources.  Having purchased a computer abroad, I've had to jump through digital hoops to set the thing up and still need to download / upload more software before class begins.  It's been a small headache, but an avoidable one nonetheless.

3.  Understand Morocco's Cultures - 9 / 10.  Though I don't want to imply that I "know" Morocco's cultures and am able to differentiate between the various Berber, Arab and French influences, I think I'm onto a good beginning and one that I wouldn't be able to begin during the school year.  The main reason why I think this is because the only way to do it is to travel around the country and see it yourself.  This, I've done to a good degree.  As a result of this thinking, I've prioritized travel over structured language training and physical fitness (in most cases).  Knowing the country's features and how to navigate through them is a large part of understanding the people who live in them.

One may be able to read about Arab hospitality, but it is entirely different experience when you're at the receiving end of a flat-bed truck ferry over a flooded causeway.  Further, reading about festivals and celebrations doesn't include the actual sound of the music, smell of the food or feeling of a muggy sunset on your skin.  Thankfully, I've had time prior to my studies to form a foundation of experiences to build upon.  I have a long way to go before I'll feel comfortable describing the differences between the plethora of cultures in this country, but that should be easier to do with concrete memories!

Recommendation / Improve: Travel as much as possible and see the things that you may not get the chance to explore while working on an advanced degree!  Tons of resources like the Lonely Planet series and "Trip Adviser" are easily accessible and quite helpful.  However, treat them as a guide and not ground truth (as they tend to lose relevancy and may be written through biased eyes).

4.  Return to the Army better equipped to serve as an Infantry Field Grade Officer - 6 / 10.  I've found that this goal requires the most individual determination and has been the most difficult to devote time to toward the beginning of my tenure.  Fortunately, I also believe that some of the sub-tasks required can be put off at the beginning of this experience.  This goal consists of three sub-tasks: (1) Understand how to relate the experience to my next (and future) jobs, (2) Prepare for my future job technically and physically, and (3) Keep in touch with the Infantry community.

Regarding the first task, it's not too early to start thinking generally about how my Moroccan experience can positively influence my future duty assignment; however, with two years remaining, it's still a little early to start consolidating and making sense of individual experiences - I still need to understand the governmental and cultural aspects of my host country far better than I do now.

I've started to continue chipping away at the second task, incorporating the "Military Monday" segment of this blog.  This has already paid some dividends, as I've forced myself to crack old field manuals and look through operational and logistical presentations and documents.  Regarding the physical component, participating in organized races has been helpful, but I've not placed a high premium of staying in "elite" shape due to conflicting travel itineraries cutting into a good routine.  This is one of those aspects where I believe there is still time to get in better shape before returning to the land of "Follow Me!"

The last part of the fourth goal calls for keeping in touch with the Infantry community, which has been one of the more enjoyable "tasks" thus far, as it involves emailing / calling / meeting with old friends and mentors as well as setting up future training and assignment opportunities with my branch.  I've never regretted choosing Infantry as my branch some nine years ago, and maintaining a close bound with it only comes naturally.

Recommendations / Improves: Keep a journal or blog to keep up on experiences; as for me, I forget too much unless I write it down.  The blog has been the one lasting technique that I've ever used to somewhat accomplish this overlooked part of development.  Once a week, get back to your roots and start preparing for the next job.  No one should begin the preparation process on the first day - there just isn't time to do it!

Four Perspectives of Morocco's Constitutional Reform

One of the smaller perks of living abroad is getting information from different perspectives.   Newsstands here carry a mix of French and Arabic magazines and periodicals, most of which aren't available throughout the country, let alone Europe or the US; satellite news primarily focuses on the region, including Europe and leading international news that occasionally touches events in the US and Far East Asia.  Even internet searches first list Moroccan or French versions of American juggernauts like Google, Facebook and Amazon.

Though minor frustrations emerge while scrolling past ten French results to find a wanted English headline, every now and then I'll look at one of them to see a foreign point of view.  Not surprisingly, if often differs from its American counterpart, if one exists.  The most striking example I recently noticed was in the reporting of the Marrakesh bombing in late April.   The difference was subtle but telling.  For various reasons, each western news source I scoured refrained from describing it as a terrorist act, but all of the Arabic sources I viewed used the word "ارهاب" (terrorism) or some variation of it to describe the situation.

Perspectives differ; fittingly, it's important to look at each of them and that's what I intend to do today. This past Friday, the King of Morocco announced the results of a constitutional reform effort he initiated three months ago on the heels of the country's first demonstrations of its version of the "Arab Spring."  I looked at this event through the eyes of four news reports the following day; as expected, each provided a different perspective despite similar facts.  (for more background information on this issue, click here)

My small sample included articles published on BBC, The New York Times, The Washington Post and Al Jazeera (Arabic) news sites.  Each posted an independent analysis within 24 hours of the King's speech, but all of them covered the event differently regarding three aspects: relevance (or importance), focal point and outlook.  But first, they agreed on quite a bit as well.

Each article relied on - and reported - the same facts while quoting the King throughout.  On Friday night, King Mohammed VI spoke to the Moroccan people on television, outlining his plan for constitutional reform.  Reforms included (1) giving the prime minister and parliament more executive authority, (2) recognizing the Berber language, (3) changing the selection process for the Prime Minister and members of the Judicial branch, among others.  Other roles, such as the King's status as the military and spiritual leader will largely remain unchanged.  On 1 July, this plan will be put up for referendum.  Here, the articles' similarities are harder to find.

Their first difference focuses less on analysis of the facts and more on the importance of the issue itself.  Regarding the proximity of the reporting agency to the source, it appears that the issue's relevance - and subsequently exposure - drops significantly.

Starting with the source most closely culturally affiliated (but not geographically located) with the issue, Qatar-based Al Jazeera, the King's constitutional reforms was "front page" in the "Top News Stories" frame.  At the time, it was the fourth story (of ten - a number that changes).  Most readers - interested or not - would see this headline after a minute or so on the site.  The story also included the most related articles of the four sources.

On the England-based BBC site, the story was also "front page" and center (not requiring any scrolling); however, it was pictureless and in medium font, surrounded by a half-dozen other headlines with photos and larger script.  In the article itself, three related stories were listed, each regarding the reform effort itself.  Again, a good majority of this site's viewers couldn't miss this headline, though most may not have read the story unless interested.

In America, readers of The Times and The Post wouldn't have found the articles unless they knew about the issue from another source.  Both articles were buried in the "Africa" portion of the "World" section, a pictureless headline only.  Within its article, The Times included a link to a general overview of Morocco whereas the Post article (taken from The Associated Press) didn't include any links.  Very few viewers were likely to find these articles unless they were specifically interested in African affairs.

In the stories, the second - and most glaring difference - is noticed: the story's focal point.  Headlines revealed three major themes that appear to be the result of cultural and geographical distance.

In Al Jazeera, the focal point is as bland as the headline, "The King of Morocco Announces Plan for a New Constitution."  Through the stories first 80%, the journalist focuses on the details of the reform itself, offering little opinion on the matter.  In the remaining portion, he focuses on the reason for the reform in the first place - demonstrators - and their apparent dissatisifaction with the process in which the announced reforms were created.  If there was an undercurrent of opinion in this article, it was lost on me and Google Translate.

As indicated by its headline, "Morocco: Protestors say king's reform not enough," BBC Online focused on the negative reaction that the speech was likely to evoke, spending minimal space on the reforms itself and none on the process from which they evolved before concluding the piece with a couple paragraphs dedicated to the positive reaction.  Though not overly biased to one side, the main theme was obvious and left me wondering more about the critics' next moves and whether or not the King's plan was earnest.

The American articles were similar to each other, both focusing on the potential governmental shift that the reform may cause, but differed in how they did it.  The Times described the shift in terms of Democracy whereas the AP article on The Post looked at it in terms of the actual government system and how it may shift toward a Parliamentary Monarchy.  Supplementing this point, both articles devoted space to the speech itself, some background information and probable reactions, both positive and negative.

So, what's next?  Since we know the answer to this question (the 1 July referendum), the final difference regards outlook and whether or not the reporting agency presents an optimistic or pessimistic view of the upcoming referendum and beyond.  Differences this time appeared to follow the drifts of freedom of speech as much as geography.

Al Jazeera offered no discernable opinion, which may or may not have been a result of recent opposition to its reporting during the "Arab Spring."  Aside from leaving this article with an air of uncertainty because of my fledgling skills in the Arabic language, I felt like this piece provided the reader with the most room for indivual thought.  Lacking any opinion itself and providing only facts for the reader left me wondering how exactly the people will truly react to the reforms and whether or not I should be optimistic.

Enjoying a little more journalistic freedom, the BBC report left me feeling the most  pessimistic about the reform effort and the legitimacy of the King's efforts.  As the headline indicates, critics have been vocal against the reform process and see the new referendum date (the old one was slated for September) as a means to placate demonstrators but continue the status quo.  Additionally, one of the "related stories" doesn't quite elicit optimism, as it was entitled, "Is Morocco next for mass uprising?"

The American sources appeared more optimistic but still left room for uncertainty as I believe their limited knowledge - or better yet - understanding of the situation may have influenced their outlooks.  Both sources concluded their pieces with Moroccans voicing how they view the future.  Though both were guarded in their optimism, each believed that reforms will benefit Morocco's future.  The Times described them as a positive shift toward a viable democratic system and a "new era" for the country, while The Post cited an interviewee who regarded the plan to reform the judiciary as much needed.

Taken by themselves, a full picture of the issue eludes us.  As it appears, too many factors tend to skew the lenses of international news, whether they are geographical, cultural or political in nature.  Regarding the King's constitutional reform, each of our sources offers a unique perspective after touching upon the facts of the issue.

But with each media outlet offering a unique emphasis, focus and outlook, we find different angles of the story and how different international audiences may view the issue.  In the realm of international relations, each perspective should be respected and taken into account as we search for the right pieces to complete our picture's puzzle.

Please find the referenced articles here: BBC, New York Times, Washington Post and Al Jazeera.

Making it through a Mid-Day Dialogue

Though this couch is comfortable enough, I need to get up or risk blinking considerably longer than acceptable.  Where's that coffee?..I need to make it through this dialogue.  So far, fifteen minutes have passed and I've not gained much from the lecturer's introduction and have yet to pinpoint the main theme of her discussion.

Relocated at the refreshment table, a strong cup of coffee rests between my thumb and forefinger and my focus is sharpening from its fuzzy malaise.  From here, the open window's breeze has even stopped muffling Dr Fatima Mernissi's words, instead providing a welcome whisp of cool air on my neck.

Before I found my comfy seat, I didn't know much about our discussion leader except what my buddy told me on our way to the Fulbright house.  Apparently, she's not only renowned as one of Morocco's leading feminist scholars, she's internationally regarded as one of Morocco's leading academics.

Later, I found that Dr Fatima is from Fes, was educated in the United States (as well as other countries) and has published over a dozen books and articles on various scholarly topics.  Standing with the fresh taste of Nescafe on my palate, I still wonder what this leading scholar intends as her focal point.

Since the Fulbright director concluded his introduction, I'd written a bunch of her antecdotes and discussion points.  As interesting as they were, they collectively appeared disjointed and mutually exclusive.  A story of how Fatima was introduced to the concept of establishing her own website was followed by a quip regarding youth and their desires to be respected and later a statistic representing the current number of Arab satellite television channels.

I listened for an indicator of the discussion's theme, but I sooner found a twice-drained coffee cup.  After another hour of discussion and a question-and-answer session, I obtained an introductory pamphlet for the speech and began to piece together what our lecturer was alluding to - something I knew I should have done prior to finding that spot on the couch!

What follows is a brief account of what I took away from the pamphlet and Dr Fatima's dialogue.  I'll not include most of the points discussed, only those I found most interesting and relevant to the discussion.  If you were there and had a different perspective, please feel free to add it below!

Dr Fatima's pamphlet was most helpful in providing the missing theme.  Entitled, "The Collapse of Masculinity as the Engine of Wealth in Digital Islam," her presentation focused on how the perceptions (and to a greater extent, roles) of women and youth were changing in the Middle East.  Two factors have assisted their evolution: the internet and satellite television.

Generally speaking, the internet has acted as a medium for populations typically cut off from information to obtain it and provide feedback to audiences not once reachable.  More specifically, women and rural youth have benefited from this increased exposure, as their voices are allowed to escape the home that once served to shield them from such "intrusions."

More noted was the influence of satellite television on women's roles, specifically regarding opportunities for financial independence as well as an increased use of sex in Arab advertising.  Dr Fatima provided examples of each, noting a female Al Arabiya journalist who was employed by CNN for $500,000 in 1997, a female Lebanese singer who makes $900,000 per performance and another female Lebanese singer who's dowry is reportedly $4 million.

As a result of these types of earnings, a new relationship status quo is emerging, one that challenges the notion that a woman's place is only in the home.  Though I see these examples as extreme outliers not at all representative of the majority of the female population, I don't doubt that there's been a shift in how their success has influenced the view of gender roles in general.

Additionally, the author circulated magazine covers and advertisements contained therein around the room.   Each showed women in non-traditionally Muslim attire, and most advertisements rivaled the level of sex appeal on display in western publications.

This type of advertising undoubtedly chafes fundamentalists and moderate Arabs throughout the Middle East but is difficult to regulate, so the question was raised whether or not a double standard exists between advertising and customs and traditions in daily life.

An audience member asked, "Is this level of sexually controversial material acceptable in advertisements as well as everyday activity?"  Afterward, he provided an incident his group observed the day prior where police arrested a handful of couples who were publicly necking, indicating that he believed a gap - even in moderate Morocco - exists between what's acceptable in magazines and everyday activity.  After our dialogue leader's neutral answer, I was left wondering.

Regardless, after an hour with Dr Fatima, I came to respect her point of view particularly with respect to the significance of increased connectivity.  As a result of being able to obtain and share information over the internet and satellite television, I don't doubt that Muslim women (and youth in general) are seeing an increased opportunity for a more prominent role in society.  Being able to grasp previously withheld information and touch once isolated audiences, it definitely follows that both groups should enjoy new economic and social opportunities.

Additionally, as our scholar alluded in her introduction, these groups not only want respect but they respect the artists currently seen in these medium outlets.  Her pamphlet concludes with a recent poll result where Moroccans voted a female stage artist known for performing nude as more influential than one of the country's most eloquent and influential party leaders.

Though I'm not convinced that poll accurately reflects the Moroccan people's true beliefs regarding Moroccan power-holders, it supports our speaker's point that controversial issues (and their proponents) enjoy once-reserved popularity and might advance gender equality in the public's perception.

Overall, I took a good bit from the discussion and was glad to find room in the audience despite my initial difficulties in finding the doctor's theme.  A few other takeaways:

• Quotes: "When you are angry, say something nice or nothing at all."  "Eat and drink but don't take too much."  "Allah doesn't like those who are too eager to consume."  "The men can fight but the women can talk."  
• Arab money is going to the west more than it should; instead, it needs to go to the Arab people.
• Consumerism is a western concept and often negatively viewed through Muslim eyes as self-centered and individualistic.
• In Sufism, the stranger is looked at as a welcome change to a known point of view.  We might all benefit from taking this point of view.
• Political realms lack creativity; therefore, women should not feel that their presence is missed should they be excluded from the process.
• Audience members have a responsibility to do their homework on their speaker just as much as a speaker should know his/her audience.  Prep beforehand.  
• It's difficult to bridge the language gap when presenting in a second language.  To do so, a concrete outline should be included at the beginning of the discussion.
• Written and Verbal Communication differ immensely.  Work on them equally.

Different yet Similar

Though differences exist between America's type of government (presidential republic) and Morocco's (constitutional monarchy), parts of their Legislative and Executive Branches resemble one another.

Today's focus is a continued look at Morocco's Legislative Branch (and the political parties that are represented in it) as well as a closer look into the Executive Branch with an introduction to the King's cabinet. As a reference point, I'll also include a look at their American counterparts.

As mentioned yesterday, the Legislative branch - like America's - consists of two parts.  However, the number of seats and length of terms between the two countries differ considerably.  Morocco's Chamber of Counselors (or Senate, if you will) consists of 270 seats, each held for nine years.  One-third of the seats change every three years.  Comparatively, the US Senate holds 100 seats with six-year terms and staggered elections.

The Moroccan Chamber of Representatives has 325 seats (compared to America's 435).  Representatives are elected by popular vote every five years to serve five-year terms, which are considerably longer than the two-year terms that US Representatives serve.

Results from the most recent elections may point us in a direction where we can begin to identify and better understand the more prominent political parties in the country.  This is necessary, as the CIA World Factbook listed over 30 relevant parties as of March.

The Chamber of Counselors election in 2003 (the latest with 'results by party' that I could find) resulted in seats predominantly divided among 10 parties: the RNI with 42 seats, MDS: 33, UC: 28, MP: 27, PND: 21, PI: 21, USFP: 16, MNP: 15, PA: 13, FFD: 12.

Results from the most recent Chamber of Representatives election in 2007 show that 10 parties primarily control the larger "lower house:" the PI won 52 seats, PJD: 46, MP: 41, RNI: 39, USFP: 38, UC: 27, PPS: 17, FFD: 9, MDS: 9, Al Ahd: 8.

From these numbers alone, the PI, RNI, UC, MP, USFP, MDS and FFD look well-represented in both chambers.  However, eight years have passed since the data collected on the Chamber of Counselors and may not accurately reflect the strength of some parties or the present makeup of the Moroccan "Senate."

A quick look at the full names of these parties can give us a little insight regarding their outlooks; additionally, I hope to learn more about their current objectives by identifying and looking at their current leaders in the future.  Unfortunately, I've been warned that words like "socialist" and even "democratic" may have different interpretations than what we're used to in the United States.

UC: Constitutional Union Party, led by Mohammed Abied
MDS: Democratic and Social Movement: Mahmoud Archane
FFD: Democratic Forces Front: Touhami El-Khiari
PI: Istiqlal (Independence) Party: Abbas El-Fassi
RNI: National Rally of Independents: Mustapha El-Mansouri
MP: Popular Movement: Mohamed Laenser
USFP: Socialist Union of Popular Forces: Abdelwahed Radi

Not officially represented in the government but possibly as involved, the ugly cousin to the recognized political party may just be the political pressure group.  Most countries have them, and my favorite source names five of them in Morocco, each of whom have the words "labor," "workers" or "employers" in their titles.

Moving to the Executive Branch, the King's Cabinet looks like President Obama's more than I originally thought.  Morocco's Executive Cabinet consists of 25 Ministers and at least four Cabinet-level officers that include the Prime Minister, Secretary General of the Government, Governor of the Bank of Morocco and Permanent Representative to the UN.

Though smaller, the United States Executive Cabinet is divided into 15 Departments that resemble the Moroccan Ministries and another seven Cabinet-level officers that include the Vice President, White House Chief of Staff, Director of the Office of Management and Budget, Administrator of the EPA, Trade Representative, Ambassador to the UN, and Chairperson to the Council of Economic Advisors.

As of March, the King's Cabinet consists of five Cabinet-level Officers and 25 Ministers.  They are:

Prime Minister: Abbas El-Fassi
Secretary General of the Government: Abdessadek Rabii
Governor, Bank al-Magrib: Abdellatif Jouahri
Ambassador to the US: Aziz Mekouar
Permanent Representative to the UN, New York: Mohammed Loulichki
Minister of Agriculture, Rural Development, & Sea Fisheries: Aziz Akhenouch
Minister of Communications & Government Spokesperson: Khalid Naciri
Minister of Culture: Bensalem Himmich
Minister of Economy & Finance: Salaheddine Mezouar
Minister of Employment & Vocational Training: Jamal Aghmani
Minister of Energy, Mines, Water & Environment: Amina Benkhadra
Minister of Equipment & Transport: Karim Ghellab
Minister of Foreign Affairs & Cooperation: Taieb Fassi-Fihri
Minister of Foreign Trade: Abdelatif Maazouz
Minister of Habous & Islamic Affairs: Ahmed Toufiq
Minister of Health: Yasmina Baddou
Minister of Industry, Commerce & New Technologies: Ahmed Chami
Minister of Interior: Taieb Cherkaoui
Minister of Justice: Mohammed Naciri
Minister of National Education, Higher Education, Staff Training & Scientific Research: Ahmed Akhchichine
Minister of Social Development, Family & Solidarity: Nouzha Skalli
Minister of State: Mohamed El-Yazghi
Minister of State: Mohand Laenser
Minister of Tourism, Handicrafts & Social Economy: Yassir Znagui
Minister of Youth & Sport: Moncef Belkhayat
Minister in Charge of Relations with Parliament: Driss Lachgar
Minister-Delegate to the Minister of Foreign Affairs & Cooperation in Charge of Moroccan Expatriate Affairs: Mohamed Ameur
Minister-Delegate to the Prime Minister in Charge of the Admin. of National Defense: Abdelatif El-Oudi
Minister-Delegate to the Prime Minister in Charge of General & Economic Affairs: Nizar Baraka
Minister-Delegate to the Prime Minister in Charge of Urbanization & Housing: Ahmed Toufiq Hejira

Though admittedly dry, I've enjoyed putting together the past couple days' posts, as they've been a much-needed start to my future goals at Al Akhawayn.  Hopefully, a couple of points opened your eyes not only to the Moroccan government but your own.

* For most of the information on the Legislative Branch, I used the same webpage from yesterday.
* For the 2003 election results for the Chamber of Counselors, I used: http://www.cosmoworlds.com/country_information/morocco.html

*For the King's Cabinet, I used the following source: https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/world-leaders-1/world-leaders-m/morocco.html

On the Road (to Understanding Morocco's Government)

I'm currently making my way through Jack Kerouac's "On the Road."  Recognized as one of the 20th century's classics, the author's narrative begins with a little character development and the start of a grand trip from New York to California.  Hitch-hiking details and the author's optimism sparkle throughout the first 70 pages, but its his journey's beginning that speaks to me today.

At his onset, our novel's protagonist spots Highway 6 as his most direct route from New York to California.  Wanting to navigate it from beginning to end, he spends a day and night traveling out of his way north from New York City to Newburgh only to be redirected in a sopping wet state back to the City and a better starting point.  Fueled by his mistake, he sought a more direct route and was well on his way a day later.  Unfortunately, it appears that our traveler had to take a step backward before he could take two forward.

In that light, today's account is me taking my own step backward in outlining Morocco's government.  I know a little about it but not a lot.  Best I find my own Highway 6 in which to organize what I'm familiar and start to uncover where I'm ignorant.  Not a lot of personal narrative today; most of the following is information directly lifted from the CIA's World Factbook in an attempt to shed a little light on the governmental and political aspects of my host country.

As my own starting point, I hope this step backward speeds me along the road to understanding some of the country's foreign policy objectives and political processes in the future.  And, I hope that it broadens your understanding by providing a little context to some of the sites that I've shared over the past few months!

The Moroccan Flag flying along Agadir's coast and, in this picture, over the mountainous Oufalla in the distance.  Between the hilltop and the beach is written, "God, Country, King."

Since 1912, a red flag with a green pentacle (five-pointed, linear star) known as Sulayman's seal in its center represents Morocco.  Red and green are traditional colors in Arab flags, although the use of red is more commonly associated with the Arab states of the Persian gulf; the pentacle represents the five pillars of Islam and signifies the association between God and the nation.

The country's conventional name, "Kingdom of Morocco," isn't regularly used when people mention the country and is often replace by the short form, "Morocco."  However, to do so omits certain aspects of the political structure that shape the country and its place in North Africa and the Middle East.

Morocco's government isn't a presidential or parliamentary republic or any variation thereof; moreover, it's a monarchy but not an absolute monarchy.  It splits the uprights of absolutism (where the King runs everything) and parliamentary constitutionalism (where he doesn't exercise any formal power) and is labeled a "constitutional monarchy."

Prior to independence from France on March 2, 1956, the French protectorate moved the country's capital from Fes to Rabat in 1912 (where it's remained since), and the government currently presides over 15 (or 16 pending your views on Western Sahara) administrative divisions five hours ahead of Washington, DC during Standard Time.

These 15 regions resemble American counties, and I can say that I've visited  a part of each of them.  Large and small, they include: Grand Casablanca, Chaouia-Ouardigha, Doukkala-Abda, Fes-Boulemane, Gharb-Chrarda-Beni Hssen, Guelmim-Es Smara, Laayoune-Boujdour-Sakia El Hamra, Marrakech-Tensift-Al Haouz, Meknes-Tafilalet, Oriental, Rabat-Sale-Zemmour-Zaer, Souss-Massa-Draa, Tadla-Azilal, Tanger-Tetouan, Taza-Al Hoceima-Taounate.

The government has recognized a limited number of national holidays with "Throne Day" (the accession of King Mohammed VI to the throne on July 30, 1999) at the top of a list that includes Independence Day (November 18th), Youth Day (August 21st) and numerous Islamic holidays.

Morocco's Constitution was finalized on 10 March 1972 and was subsequently revised on September 4, 1992, and later amended in September, 1996 (when a bicameral legislature was created).

Kids are recognized as adults at the same age as in the United States and are then subject to a legal system "based on Islamic law and French and Spanish civil law systems" and presided over by a Judicial branch led by a Supreme Court whose judges are appointed by a monarch-led Council.

The Executive branch consists of the chief of state, King Mohammed VI (since his ascension to the throne in 1999), and the head of government, Prime Minister Abbas El-Fassi (since 19 September 2007).  The King's cabinet is a Council of Ministers appointed by the monarch.  Elections don't touch the monarchy (which is hereditary), and the prime minister is appointed by the monarch following legislative elections.

The Legislative branch is a bicameral Parliament consisting of two Chambers (or houses): The Chamber of Counselors and the Chamber of Representatives.  The Chamber of Counselors (or upper house) consists of 270 seats, and members are elected indirectly by local councils, professional organizations, and labor syndicates to serve nine-year terms.  One-third of the members are elected every three years, and the last election was held on October 3, 2009.

The Chamber of Representatives (or lower house) has 325 seats, and 295 members are elected by multi-seat constituencies, while the remaining 30 come from national lists of women.  Members are elected by popular vote every five years to serve five-year terms.  With 100% turnover, the last election was held on September 7, 2007.

Though most of the above information is fairly straight forward, the King's Cabinet and the Legislative branch deserve some continued investigating (tomorrow).

* Click here for my primary reference, the CIA World Factbook: Morocco.

Learning a Little about Morocco's Peace Corps

In October 1960, then-Senator John F. Kennedy spoke to students of the University of Michigan in a late-night speech that he described during its conclusion as the "longest short speech" he ever made.  In between its 2 am beginning and quick ending, the future president's message challenged future doctors and engineers to look at more than just individual financial stability; it prompted them to consider spending a couple of selfless years in support of their country, and the world.

Today, the Peace Corps marks this speech as its unofficial beginning, and since 1961 over 200,000 Peace Corps Volunteers have served in at least 130 countries to promote world peace and friendship by working through various specialties that include youth development, environment projects and health services, among many others.

The Peace Corps currently serves 77 countries through 8,600 volunteers, and a good number of them are in Morocco.  But this shouldn't be surprising.  According to the US Embassy in Rabat, Morocco "was among the first countries to invite the Peace Corps to assist in its development...in 1963."  


Throughout the nearly fifty years since, about 4,000 volunteers have served the Moroccan Kingdom, and a rough estimate has the number around 250 in country today working in four sectors: Environment, Health, Small Business Development and Youth Development.


Since my arrival in January, I've had the opportunity to meet and establish friendships with what seems like most of them.  Facebook, Super Bowl parties, Soccer matches (Go Barca!) and random encounters have put me in contact with some of the altruistic types that then-Senator Kennedy sought at that large Midwestern University so long ago.

Every time one of these meetings happens, I can't help but smile at the disparity between our organizations' differences and how pleasant each encounter always ends.   One's purpose is to fight and win wars, while the other's is to promote world peace and friendship.  Regardless, we seem to leave having enjoyed the conversation.

So, when my latest chance to sit down and learn about the Peace Corps arrived yesterday, I couldn't help but jump at the chance for some good conversation and see if the volunteers enjoy living in the middle-of-nowhere Morocco as much as I enjoyed the same for a few years in Iraq and Afghanistan.

Yesterday's opportunity came about as the result of some country-wide health awareness training in Rabat for all of Morocco's volunteers.  Accordingly, an old acquaintance, Aaron, whom I met during a trip to Demnate's "Happy Valley" gave a call and four of us met for a good dinner in the middle of town.

Juan, whom I met a couple nights before at a soccer match, and his girlfriend rounded out the attendees as well as the Peace Corps sectors.  To Aaron's Health, Juan added Youth Development and Jen, Environment. The only piece missing was Small Business Development and from what my three mates told me, that wouldn't be an issue soon.

As we chewed through medium-rare beef, a couple dishes of pasta and a large fish, the volunteers informed me that Moroccan Volunteers will soon shift from covering four sectors to just one: Youth Development.  In their opinion, the move seems to make sense because the one remaining sector will line up well with what Moroccans want and what volunteers can reasonably expect to give.

The English language tops the list, but youth services and organizational activities not covered in either of the Youth or Education Ministries round out some of the potential projects.  In my opinion, it appears that the organization is successfully moving towards this change if projects like "summer camp" and "spring camp" are indicative of the overall effort.


Each camp spans between a week and two and integrates a small number of rural children into a big-city environment.  Apparently, this summer's camp will be hosted by Essaouira, and each Youth Development volunteer can select a small number of kids from his or her regional area to participate.  For most of these kids, it's their first time away from home and the experience opens their imaginations to unseen opportunities.  


Though I have a lot to learn about the Youth Development sector and the different methods that Peace Corps Volunteers are able to improve it, the idea sounds like a good move because it focuses on education and community involvement.  Sifting through my licorice-tasting vegetables, I couldn't help but think back to my first trip to Iraq.  One of my areas was similar to what these volunteers see today: limited utilities, remotely located and subsequently cutoff from the government.


The biggest concern my Iraqi counterparts expressed was the lack of educational and communal activities available to their youth.  After driving around that border area in a convertible Humvee for a couple months, the roadside sites reflected those concerns.  Youth everywhere, doing nothing productive.  Not learning anything, caught in the remains of a depressive cycle where a powerful dictator kept his Kurdish minority weak.  


Though not a product of a situation that remotely resembles the state of affairs here in Morocco, the Iraqi people's desires seemed to reflect those of most Moroccans today.  Equally as opposing are our organizations, and its nice to hear that my new friends can focus most of their resources assisting their country's most valuable asset.  Good for the Peace Corps, and good luck to them.


Refocusing on my dinner mates' satisfied faces, we decided to part ways: the altruistic off to enjoy the spoils of the big city for one last evening, and the Soldier back to his apartment to behave himself and start looking up more about Kennedy's Peace Corps.

Morocco's Underwhelming Demonstrations

It's been a couple days since Morocco's big demonstrations, and there's good reason why I decided to go to - and post about - Tangier and Chefchaouen rather than discuss Morocco's political climate the past few days.  Actually, there's been a couple reasons.  First, from my perspective in the nation's capital, there just hasn't been anything similar to the rest of the Middle East going on here.  Second, the one event that did happen (the 20 February Demonstrations) wasn't worth getting stirred up about.

The Royal Palace and Parliament (not pictured, right).  No one stirring.

But some time's passed, I walked around today, talked to some locals and I feel like discussing what I've seen and read about the political situation here.  Before I do though, I just want to add that every country in the Middle East (or the parts I've seen of it) is different due to numerous factors.  Most times, these matters differ from what we see in the U.S.; sometimes they're the same.  And other times, the least of these factors is actually the guy sitting at the head of the table.

As you may know, since Tunisia cleared the head of its table, pretty much every Arab country except some gulf states has conducted newsworthy demonstrations demanding either the removal of leadership, sweeping reforms within their governments, or both.  Tunisia and Egypt got what they wanted, and others may be on their way.

Morocco, however, will not be one of them.  Despite not having a unified goal, organizers tried to get some specified demands answered but ultimately didn't have their hearts in it during their "big" nation-wide demonstrations on February 20th.  Now, after a lackluster showing, I believe that the "movement" in Morocco is done - finished (or more accurately, never started).  In my opinion (and it's still pretty raw), the 20 February demonstrations were a dip-the-toe-in-the-water moment designed to test the nation's resolve for change.  Given the underwhelming numbers of participants, that water appears to be pretty cool.  Estimates have varied as to how cool though.

The Washington Post reported a "weak turnout" of about 8,000 people.  A little later, Al-Jazeera (Arabic) put the number of nation-wide demonstraters above 35,000 but noted the peaceful atmosphere.  Today, my copy of the Rabat circular called it 37,000.  Still, the population of the country sits around 35 million and the rally was held on a weekend.  Quick math tells me only about .1% of the population participated at a convenient time.

On top of the low numbers, the flavor of the demonstrations differed from the others.  Whereas demonstrations in Egypt, Tunisia, Libya and Yemen demanded regime change as the primary goal, few newspapers and no Moroccans cited removal of the nation's King, Mohammed VI, as a motive for the February 20th Moroccan demonstrations.

Rather, it appears that the majority of Moroccans marched because they were pissed about unemployment, corruption in the Parliamant and the level of power-sharing between Parliament and the Monarch.  The Washington Post adds that demonstrators wanted better economic opportunity, educational reform, health services and government assistance with rising living costs.

Further, most of the demonstration sites were organized and peaceful, probably due to the fact that the Moroccan population is allowed to legally demonstrate (unlike populations elsewhere).  However, the Post also reported violence breaking out in Marrakesh as "youths threw rocks and mobs overturned and torched parked cars."

Also, the BBC reported the next day that five men were "killed" and burned in the north but sounded unconvinced that their deaths were the result of political uprise.  In the local newspaper this morning, the Minister of Interior confirmed that five burnt corpses were found in a northern city.  But, he too maintained a distance between their cause of deaths and the demonstrations.

So the demonstrations happened, had some violent moments and got some print space in the papers.  But, what kind of televised coverage are they getting compared to other Middle Eastern countries?  Well, after watching yesterday's news for about eight hours on Al-Arabiyah and Al-Jazeera, Morocco's demonstrations weren't discussed once, and I didn't see any headlines of them "rolling" across the bottom of the screen.  I saw a two-minute segment on them this morning, but that was it.

So far, they haven't stacked up at all.  But in all fairness, it's kind of difficult to compete with Qaddafi, as Libya's leader has everyone even forgetting about Egypt already.  I imagine Morocco's King (as well as other Arab leaders) has already called Colonel Qaddafi for an unneeded personal thank you.

So, why is Morocco different?  In explaining why the demonstration's results were different from the rest of the Middle East, both the Washington Post and BBC are quick to paint the country in a different light than its Arab neighbors.  The Post says that Morocco's economy is better and more stable than its neighbors, citing tourism growth, respectable gross domestic and national products and strong ties to the West as contributing factors.  The BBC notes the king's reforms over the past 12 years and how progressive he's been with technology and freedom of speech compared to the rest of the Middle East.

I see their logic and agree with both points.  But, another possible reason for the lackluster showing may have been that the opposition leadership didn't have a clear or united purpose.  I like how the Post described the call-to-demonstrate on Facebook:

The self-styled "February 20 movement" - apparently not for any particular historic reason - was largely summoned through social media like Facebook. 

But the open call to demonstrate also caused confusion, as disparate political and religious groups elbowed their way in and sought to reshape a protest movement to serve their own ends.

One youth-led group initially behind the call to march - whose name translates as the Freedom and Democracy Now Movement - canceled its plan to take part on Saturday, saying the movement was hijacked by leftist political parties and Islamists seeking to infuse ideology and faith issues.

To me, this type of political bickering screams "Hey! Everyone else is doing it, let's do it too!  Wait, what do we want again?"  So, I haven't taken these demonstrations too seriously and had to chuckle at the Post's world-map description of it last night - though factually accurate (as far as I could tell), they certainly picked some choice words to make the story more interesting!

Demonstrators Today NOT "Picking a Fight" in front of the Royal Palace and a Ministry of Education Building

This "movement" should pass quickly enough (if it hasn't already), but specific demonstrations regarding the country's bigger issues will justifiably continue...as they have in the past.

A Month by the Numbers and Your Questions Answered

It's been a month already!  In the spirit of reflection, this post is aimed at the "little things" that slipped through the cracks of previous posts.  Here are a few observations by the numbers and answers to your consolidated questions.  

1: Sock "lost" in the bathroom.  Happened on Day 1 with my Moroccan family and was followed by a quick run to the local mini-market.

1: Moroccan "friend" who tried to rip me off while I was looking for an apartment.  Friend-no-more.

1: Haircut.  While sitting in the chair for 30 minutes, this was also the number of words that I understood in the exchange between my Moroccan host and the barber.

1: Program I've seen other than the news regarding the Egyptian (and other) demonstrations shown in any cafe / restaurant.  This program was a soccer game.

2: Bus rides.  Typically crowded and much, much slower than a petite taxi, I've only ridden them twice - both times with my Moroccan host and never again (Enshallah).

2: Hamman visits.  The Moroccan Hammam is famous for its deep cleaning and therapy.  This is also the number of layers of skin I lost each time after the coarse scrubbings!

3: Guys I saw publically peeing downtown in the middle of the day during my first week.  No citations witnessed.

3: Colors for the petite taxis between Rabat (blue), Fes (red) and Marrakesh (green, if I remember correctly).

3: Yellow-colored fingers from smoking.  Time to stop.

4: Midnight strolls with my Moroccan family and friends.  Typically returning at 1:00 AM for dinner, I rather quickly began to opt out of this routine after the first week.

4: Round-trip train tickets purchased.  Easily the most reliable and efficient way to travel between the big cities.

5: Times per day the Mosque down the street echoes out the "Call to Prayer" for the devote Muslims.  Like America, there is the religiously devoted and everyone else.  Life doesn't stop for the call and most people that I've met don't pray but once or twice a day (if at all).

5: Teachers that my classmates and I had in a one-week period while our scheduled dialect teacher was under the weather.  Typically, we would have one instructor; it was a frustrating week because the dialect isn't formally written but still taught in writing and each teacher has their own transcription system.

6: Workout sessions (running mostly) that I've done since arriving (zero regrets thus far).

7: Political and religious conversations that I "enjoyed" with my host family before I opted to cut my stay with them in half.

8: AM - Typical wake up time.

10: Approximate number of times I've almost been hit by a car (while trying to cross the street).  One other time while I wasn't.

12: AM - Typical bed time.

14: Times that I watched the band Queen on DVD with my Moroccan host (and unemployed music composer) during my 14-day stay with them.

20: February - Big demonstration planned in Rabat.  Guess who will attend.

28: Moroccan Dirham (MAD) for lunch today - Chicken Tajine, French Fries, Salad and Coke.  Approximately $3.00 USD.

30: Days of the Arabic / Dialect mix in my head.  It's been a little frustrating at times because about half of the Arabic words work in the dialect.  The trick - so I'm told - is to know which ones (thanks teaching staff).

Picture break: The Rabat Lighthouse  

Now, to some of your questions.  It's taken a little time to feel comfortable answering some of them, as I'm still new and don't want to make many opinions too prematurely.  From your comments, Facebook posts and emails...

Any particular reason for Morocco?  I chose Morocco because I wanted to continue my passing familiarity with Arabic but didn't want to be in a more traditional country in the Middle East or Egypt.  This has been a fortuitous choice so far.  I heard that Morocco was more open to foreigners and was less traditional than its fellow Arab states.  I've found both to be true up to this point.  There's a liquor store down the street, and I don't feel too out of place as I walk around in traditional American clothing.  Further, there's a lot to see and do as well as a multitude of climates and terrain.  Very similar to California in size, feel and climates!


How do they "celebrate" their traditional holidays?  From what I've been told, traditional American holidays, such as Christmas and Easter, are observed here but not treated with the same importance.  There are as many Muslim holidays as there are holidays in the US.  Yesterday, Mohammed's birthday was cause for most shops to close.  Big parties and celebrations are held during Ramadan, Eid Al Fitor and Eid Al Ahad amongst others.  I haven't seen any of them yet, so hold that thought!

Do all children go to school and, if so, up to what age? Do individuals have to pay for college or does the government pay/subsidize? What doe most study (men versus women) and are classes segregated?  I don't have good answers to these questions yet, but give me some time.  For now, there has been continuous educational reforms in the country since the 1950's.  At present, there's a mix of boys-only / girls-only and non-segregated schools.  The latter is more typical in the bigger cities while the former remains the norm in the smaller "Rif" villages (from what I've been told by a professor from a university in Meknes).  

What's a "typical" breakfast, lunch, dinner?  A typical breakfast for me is black coffee and some type of bread or croissant.  Lunch is usually whatever the special of the day is at my school.  Choices have ranged from pastilla, tajine, couscous to panina and french fries.  Dinner is a mix of traditional Moroccan dishes and whatever French / foreign restaurant I visit.  Pizza is also a big dish here, available at most restaurants.  


What are your travel plans?  For this first month, I wanted to travel around Rabat and see everything worth seeing in my host city.  I feel that I've done that (for the most part) and will now branch out to the rest of Morocco for the next couple of months.  From the northern Rif to the southern Sahara, I hope to see it all!  After that, I'm planning a cross-continent European trip from Portugal to Moscow.  Next summer, after my first year at Al Akhawayn, maybe more Europe or India and the Far East...


What's your program in Rabat like? Is this an immersive year? I guess you take some dialect classes and otherwise try to interact with local people as much as possible?  The program at the school is very flexible.  I'm putting together a piece with my classmates that should describe it better than I could myself.  Hopefully, it will be ready next week!  This is the first year of my two and a half year immersion.  I live in the city, try to limit my visits to the Embassy and attempt to meet new Moroccans daily.  In the fall, I will regain some "structure" and attend Al Akhawayn University in Ifrane for a Master's in International Relations (which, one could argue, is my ultimate administrative goal here).


How is Morocco? Tell me what you think of it! Is it what you expected, more, less? How is the culture there? Are you fitting in?  I've enjoyed everything about Morocco so far!  I've found the people and the culture to be very open and accepting of foreigners / foreign ideas.  Unfortunately, as a result, I've found it somewhat lacking a national identity at times.  For instance at the National Theater, there wasn't a national anthem or introduction in Arabic along with the French/English/Sign welcome.  Personally, most people are welcoming and things are easy to find.  The culture - as I've witnessed in daily life - doesn't appear to fundamentally differ from what we try to accomplish daily in America.  Tomorrow, I'll complete my month of dialect classes (which I've attended almost daily from anywhere between two and six hours).  I interact with people - Moroccan and foreigners alike - daily, mostly for lunch, dinner or evening strolls down Rabat's spacious streets.  I have taken a few days off though and stuck around the apartment watching American movies!


To those who asked these questions, I hope these answers are good enough.  Keep 'em comin!  For those who didn't, feel free to jump in...