I've been conspicuously silent for the past week and a half for good reason. My girl came to visit Morocco for the first time and deserved my full attention after her arrival. Sadly, Raven's departure has come as quickly as each of our ten days together passed. However, I think we made the most of our time as I rediscovered some old haunts and introduced more to her. This is part one of four, with links and pictures purposely abandoned but forthcoming in the later installments.
Our time started at the Rabat airport with first looks that confirmed what we knew, what we wanted and what we knew we wanted. That evening began with a bottle of wine and ended as our first night together. In between, we met some new friends and got to be a couple in Rabat for the first time.
The next morning, we visited Rabat's sites after a light breakfast. The trip started at Chellah, proceeded to the Mausoleum and ended with a walk through the souq to La Oudaya, the coast and a market. We ended our sunny tour by driving past Parliament, the Royal Palace and the National Library. At dusk, we made fajitas and enjoyed dinner on the rooftop overlooking the ocean. Afterwards, we concluded the evening by watching one of Raven's favorites, Casablanca.
After the sun rose, we caught a train to swanky Marrakech. Upon arriving in its warmth, we checked into luxury at Riad Kniza, planned our two days and departed into the old medina. Along the way, we visited some craft shops en route to the evening's destinations. Leaving them empty-handed, we began our tour of the Koubba Ba'Adiyn, the nearby (and unimpressive) Marrakech Museum and its neighbor, the ultra-impressive Ben Youssif Madrasa before making some purchases in the spice cafe.
From there, we had our senses assaulted at the Jemaa el-Fna. Between super-sweet orange juice, spicy light meals at the food stalls, slimy snake photos and frustrating attempts at "fishing for soda," we couldn't take anymore, began our return by the Koutoubia Mosque and arrived to the riad with enough time to prepare for Morocco's version of Medieval Times, Chez Ali. Through three straight hours of food and drink, the experience was a continous theater of song, dance and spectacle. From a handful of cultural musical performances to the concluding fantasia, our eyes and ears were never given a reprieve from Ali's take on Moroccan culture. Thankfully, we had a bottle of wine to help soften the blow!
Beginning too early the next morning, we woke for a huge breakfast atop the riad, complete with pastries, a small arsenal of fruit and more jams than I could shake my knife (at). Immediately after, we met our guide with full bellies and hungry minds. Our first stop was to the Koutoubia Mosque, where we learned more about the history of Morocco than of the mosque. Next, we visited the kasbah and the Saadian Tombs, an elaborate grave commemorating 500 years of their dynasty. Next was a trip through the Jewish Mellah followed by stops at the Bahia Palace and the Dar Si Said Museum. After a couple hours between the two of them, we bid adieu to our know-it-all guide and made our way back to the Koutobia and Mamounia Gardens to take in a little peace and quiet before beginning our journey out of the "tourists' city."
By early evening, we were in El-Jadida's Mozagen Resort some two hours northwest of Marrakech. A western-styled casino resort more typical of Las Vegas than even moderate Morroco, the Mozagen gave us two days of traditional spring break activities as well as horseback riding, spa treatment and four types of gourmet restaurants. We dined Moroccan the first night, enjoying the non-Moroccan subtleties of the huge resort.
After an expansive breakfast the next morning, I read next to the pool as Raven received a well-deserved spa treatment; upon her return, we continued at the pool for most of the afternoon, chatting about almost everything under the bright sun before leaving for a horseback session. Seafood for the second evening's dinner was followed by losing plenty of Dirhams in little time at the casino.
Leaving the resort early the next day, we returned to Rabat by mid-afternoon, took a walk around my favorite jogging path, did some shopping, made dinner and watched a movie before unwinding for the evening. An unexpected "Embassy day" followed some more shopping the next day, as acquaintances old and new were rekindled at a couple informal events. Drinks and dinner complimented conversations both light and professional through the evening.
There was little rest for the travelers the next morning. After a late-morning train departure, we arrived in Fes in time to get lost around its old medina for a few hours. Along the way, we meandered by the Karaouiyine Mosque, the Tanners' Quarter, Bou Inania Madrasa, Dar el-Batha Museum, Moulay Idriss University, the Kasbah, the Water Clock and Cafe Clock. By 8:00 PM, our appetites were more than worked up for a dinner date with friends, Gaelle and David. Through Tagine and wine, we enjoyed a casual night of catching up, conversing and singing (yes non-believers, I sang). Walking back to our riad through deserted medina alleys brought the evening to a peaceful close.
A gorgeous breakfast brought the next morning to a fruitful opening. After, we set afoot up the city's western hills to their two prominent affects, the Merinid Tombs and the Borj Nord Museum of Arms. Under a still sun and between gusting winds, we could finally separate the old city's urban forrest of endless shops, alleys and dead-ends from its "trees."
A mid-day taxi then brought us to Ifrane, where we met with more friends, stopped by my future university and strolled through the town's tidy, quiet streets. Another taxi returned us to Meknes and an evening train back to Rabat.
With the evening's time again stolen from us, our final morning arrived sooner then desired. It was time for another trip. This time, unfortunately, the day's mode of transport returned to plane from train and the number of tickets halved from two to one, bringing an end to my best ten days...
