Wrapping up the Southern Trip (Part 4 of 6)

Local Traffic.

Long trips over the Tizi n' Tichka pass and through the Dra'a and Sousa Valleys were the bread wrapping our desert sandwich.  And these pieces were large, as it was four hours from Rabat to Marrakesh, four from there to Ouarzazate and another four to M'Hamid and the Erg Chigaga desert.  And that was only one slice.  The other slice - our return trip to Rabat - consisted of two legs and 14 more hours over to and from Agadir.

But despite these considerable distances, the sites and stops along these drives offered a wide variety of terrain and activities well worth navigating them.  To Marrakesh and from Essaouira, crops were harvested on flat plains that extended from both sides of the highway.  From Marrakesh to Agadir, the High and Anti Atlas sprouted over and cut under winding roads where driving even half of the posted 100 kph speed limit would've meant a one-way ticket off the side of a cliff.

Countryside between Essaouira and El-Jadida.

Combines Congesting Traffic.

Mom: "The upside [of the trip] came when we were on the final leg of the journey through the oasis filled stretches after our descent from the highest of the ranges.  Filled with exotic palms, swaths of rich green bamboo, small grids of farm crops (obviously melons and other water demanding plantings) and native shrubs filled with pink, lavender and fuchsia blooms, the river supplied a diverse range of horticultural life - my reward for surviving my earlier torture!"

The Anti Atlas West of Agdz.

The Anti Atlas East of Agadir.

Mom: "The drive to [Ait Benhaddou] was more than I could handle without grasping my seat and re-directing my attention on the walls of rock that were opposite the weakly guard-railed drop-offs out the other window.  Being an individual who sufffers from a fear of heights, (which unfortunately rubbed off on my backseat traveling companion, Megan) I found the ride through the high Atlas portion of the trip as a testimonial that I am not the most fun person to have in the car..."

The Atlantic between Agadir and Essaouira.

The Atlantic between Agadir and Essaouira.

And between our three coastal towns, the other side of the Atlantic met mountainous fingers under clouded skies that broke with more rain than I've seen in my four months here and only cleared just enough for some wet and sloppy touring.  The first stop along our tour was to the country's tourist hub, Marrakesh.

Across the Jamaa L'Fna, the Cafe sits shrouded by Tan Curtain and the Largest of the 20 or so Moroccan Flags draped around the Tourist Site.

I've covered Marrakesh a couple times before, and stops to the same places didn't offer much new, so if you want to explore them, visit the slideshow pictures or click here and here.  One new site, unfortunately, did greet us: the remains of the late-April cafe bomb that killed 16 tourists and locals.  Tastefully-covered, the site didn't do much to hinder the traffic around it, which was consistent most of the afternoon and multiplied tenfold in the evening.  It looked like business as usual.

Ait Benhaddou, home of the kasbah most recently used in Gladiator amongst many others, was next on the agenda and exposed a couple hard truths to my guests.  First, the road between Marrakesh and Ait Benhaddou can be quite frightening (see mom's account above); second, food service in small towns leaves a lot to be desired and third, a muddy kasbah is tough to climb.

The Kasbah of Ait Benhaddou.

On the Way up in Ait Benhaddou.  Numerous slick steps cut back and forth between art and gift shops, making an otherwise enjoyable trip potentially hazardous.

Atop the Kasbah, lunch would have to wait, as most of the restaurants below were closed or weren't serving most of the menus late in the afternoon.

A night in Ouarzazate greeted us after Ait Benhaddou's challenges, and we were helped to a different type of activity in the morning: a movie studio tour.  Being Morocco's "Hollywood" (or "Mollywood"), Ouarzazate is home to a couple movie studios, some famous kasbahs and a movie museum.  We visited two of them before heading to the desert later that day.

Part of Cleopatra's set at the Studio.

Megan on one of Cleopatra's props at the Movie Museum.

Backstage at the Studio Tour.

Part of Ben Hur's set.

One of the Props in Ouarzazate's Atlas Studios.

Indentured Servitude at the Movie Museum.

Grandma was picked as our Archer (our helper must've heard that she still hunts with a crossbow back in the States).

Sibling Rivalry...

...and Embarrassing Defeat.

After the long, wet ride out of the desert, our trip to Agadir wasn't much better.  Made more difficult by driving rain that flooded roads, rough road that was chewed up by mining trucks and jagged pieces of the Atlas that sat in the road, looking to pop exposed tires.  After about two and a half hours, our biggest challenge yet awaited us.

We winded around the corner to find cars and trucks idling along the road's side, split by a seemingly insurmountable obstacle.  Between them, a forty meter deluge of brown water flooded over the road's spillway into the valley rocks on the other side.  The same image undoubtedly ran through each traveler's head: the torrent pushing his vehicle off the road into those rocks.  Unfortunately for us, there was no way around the spillway; either we cross it or go back 150 minutes toward Agdz.

After most of the afternoon, no one yet braved the muddy waters until a small man slowly staggered across them, water up to his hips.  Shortly after, the first vehicle - a large military truck - attempted the rift.  With enough clearance between the road and his floorboards, he made it without issue, splashing my mom and I as he smiled off into the distance.  His crossing sparked some ingenuity, and it wasn't much longer until financial opportunity entered a couple minds.  Soon after, a flatbed wrecker started "ferrying" vehicles across the river and was kind enough to oblige us without much of a wait.  

Part of the Spillway we would later cross atop Flatbed Wrecker.  My Sister enjoyed this part of the trip as much as mother enjoyed driving through the Tizi n'Tichka.

The Sunset welcoming us to Agadir.

Safely on the "right" side of the river, we found safe passage to Agadir, finally arriving for a little bit of rest late in the evening.  For the first time in a while, the sun welcomed us the next morning and brightened each of the city's three main attractions: the beach, port and mountain top overlook: the Effoulah.

Agadir's Crescent-Shaped Coast.

Baby Goats proved Irresistible.

Agadir's Port: A mix of Ship-building, Tourism and Shipping.

Agadir's Highest Point.

A few hours later, goats engaging in a peculiar pastime caused an unscheduled stop before our next destination, Essaouira.

Goats Climb Trees in Morocco.

The Biggest Goat-Covered Argon Tree.

The Goats crack the harder, outer shells of the Argon Fruit, exposing their oil-filled interior for harvest.

Essaouira's Famous for its Windy Coast.

Smaller than Agadir's Crescent-shaped Coast, Essaouira's Beach was mostly filled by Moroccans and not Europeans.

A Wind Surfer between the coast and the Mogador Islands.

The further north we traveled, the better (smoother and straighter) the road seemed to get.  Before we knew it, we were in El-Jadida and back on the national highway.  A short time later, Casablanca passed on our left and Rabat welcomed us for a couple days of rest and laundry.  Our southern trip was long and diverse but considered a good start the moment my apartment's front door closed behind the last of us.

"Hail of Bullets:"

• Gma says, "I was anxious to see the people and how they lived, their homes and how they made a living."
• Gma's Most Enjoyable Site: "I think I enjoyed the beauty of the landscape and flowers the most."
• Gma says, "What I didn't understand how going through towns little and big was how the men sat drinking whatever along the streets' cafe's just talking and looking, any time of the day."
• Gma's Interest: "What I found interesting were the flocks of sheep and goats tended by shepherds freely grazing. A small farm usually had rocks or cactus as fences." 
• Gma says, "It seems to me the southern  part of Morocco is not so far advanced in farm and building equipment as the northern areas."

"Planning Factor of the Day"
Renting a Car: Roughly the cost of a trans-Atlantic plane ticket, I considered this expense my contribution to the trip.  Knowing that most of the trip would be away from the reliable train system, I looked at rentals.  Though more expensive than public transportation, I figured this would cut out needing to find - and later waiting at - grand taxi stands and bus stations, as well as haggling with their operators.  


Options were surprisingly varied, with numerous companies available to choose from in and around Rabat.  I wanted a 7-person vehicle, preferably with four-wheel drive.  After a few days of searching, I found a company that promoted "no hidden costs" and upfront, all-inclusive payment as well as the option to pick up and drop off the vehicle at the Rabat Airport through Alamo.  


After confirming both the reservation and time for pickup, I arrived at the airport only to find that Alamo didn't operate there and all of the rental desks were consipicuously unmanned.  A phone call to my British-based rental agency confirmed that the reservation was from a different agency that had an empty counter at the airport.  


Upon locating a couple phone numbers taped to the desk and talking to a few employees, I was informed that my vehicle would arrive in about 30 minutes - a good 30 minutes after the scheduled arrival of my family, who were unboarding their flight at the moment.  Great start, I thought.  


However, this would prove the only hickup with the van.  The vehicle was bigger than I expected and would subsequently fit all bags and travel gear without issue.  It made it over and through all mountain ranges and down all tight urban lanes.  Being a diesel also halved planned fuel expenses, as we cut away from train stations and typical travel hubs to explore countryside only reached by bus or grand taxi.

Worth its Weight in Gold (Part 1 of 6)

Silence is golden.  I can't remember the first time I heard the expression or the last time I've used it, but it seems appropriate to describe the feeling of being "off-line" over the past couple weeks.  The reason: I've spent the past fourteen days with the people most important to me over the years (save my brother and my woman): my family.

Day One of the Moroccan Vacation: (from left) Al, Grandma, Mom, Dad, Megan

The six of us able to make the trip kept busy seeing sites new and old courtesy of a well-used rental van and strategically-place "Ibis" hotels and started to familiarize with Morocco by guidebook, well-intentioned guides, other tourists and helpful locals across the country.  Broken into four mini-tours to the country's capital, south, middle and northern areas, my family's orientation to "my second country" was a compilation of contrasts that mirrored the country itself.

Part of the Rif Mountains towering over the Mediterranean.

Between rumbling up and down four different mountain ranges and cruising along two different coasts, we were drenched in cold rain atop camel while exiting the desert and baked under an unrelenting sun during a bird-watching boat ride.  Locals brushed by us in unending waves by foot and atop motor scooter and donkey cart one day while only waves of golden sand scurried by us another.  Good food and bad, smooth drives and treacherous river crossings met us along the way.

One of the First Trucks willing to forge the gushing spillway we later crossed atop a Flatbed Wrecker.

Our schedule was ambitious (as you'll see shortly), and I'm proud of the way my guests kept open and interested minds amidst the different culture and traditions they all experienced for the first time.  But, if I've taken anything away from this trip, its a little motivation after seeing my grandmother and her husband, Al, make it through every part of the visit.

"The Silvers" (as they were affectionately referred to), looking for signs of Hercules in his rumored Grotto.

If I even make it to my eighties, I hope to just continue breathing, hold my bowels and get some visits from the people in my life, much less travel across an ocean, hop on a camel for four hours, climb countless kasbah stairs and sit in the back (back) seat of a broken-in, manual van for ten days (and close to forty hours).  Thanks for the inspiration you two - you did great!

In a nutshell, here's what we did and what you can look forward to in the next few postings!  The format is: Trip Number/Day, City: Sites or Brief Description.

1/1, Rabat: Chellah, The Hassan Mausoleum, Tombs of Hassan II and Mohammad V, Oudaya.

2/2-3, Marrakesh: Jamaa L'Fna, Koutoubia Mosque, Museum of Marrakesh, Ali Ben Youssef Madrasa, Kouba Ba'adin, Carriage Ride, Majorelle Gardens, Carriage Ride, Saadian Tombs.

2/3, Tizi n'Tichka: Drove over the Highest Mountain Pass in Morocco.

2/3, Ait Benhaddou: Walked up to the Kasbah from Gladiator, Jewel of the Nile, Lawrence of Arabia, Jesus of Nazareth, and others.

2/3-4, Ourzazate: Atlas Studio Productions Tour, Movie Museum of Morocco, Kasbah Taourirt from Star Wars.

2/4, Dra'a Valley: Towns of Agdz, Zagora (52 Days to Timbuktu), Palm Tree Wadis and Rolling Mountains.

2/4-5, M'Hamid: Erg Chigaga Desert and Camel Tour.

2/5, Tazenakh: River Crossing atop Flatbed Wrecker.

2/5-6, Agadir: Beach, Port, Saadian Kasbah and City Overlook.

2/6, Essaouira: Beach, Mogador Island.

2/6, Al-Jedida: Coast (drove thru only).

3/8, Volubilis: Largest and most Preserved Roman Ruins in Morocco.

3/8, Meknes: Imperial City under Moulay Ismail (drove thru only).

3/8-9, Fes: Bab Bajloud, The Old Medina, Cafe Clock, The Water Clock, The Bou Inania Medrasa, The Art d'Bronze, The Wood Workers' Alley, The Small Tanneries, The Metal Workers' Alley, The Qaraoiyn Mosque, David and Gaelle's Place, The Barj Nord and Weapons Museum, The Merined Tombs.

3/9, Ifrane: Al-Akhawayn Universtiy, The Stone Lion.

4/11, Moulay Boussalham: Merja Zerga Bird Sanctuary.

4/11-12, Tangier: Small Port, Cap Spartel, Grotto of Hercules, Hafa Cafe, Grand Socco.

4/12, Sebta (Spain): Spanish Fort, Plaza of Africa, House of the Dragons.

4/12, Tetouan: Old Spanish Capital (drove thru only).

Given this itinerary and the limited number of guides used throughout it, I consider myself "tour-qualified."  Feel free to make a trip over here and see this great country for yourself!

Three Months in the Rear View

A quarter of my first year abroad has passed, and it did so slower than I imagined.  For all that I've heard about how time flies and the two and a half years "will pass before you know it," I have to admit that the first three months haven't felt like it.  I suppose this is the first point of my quarterly review.

For the remainder of this post, I'll take a look at a few of my initial goals and stand them up against how they've transitioned from "planning" to "doing."  These goals regard language proficiency, travel, socialization (meeting people), academics (understanding national and regional politics and history) and my profession (keeping up with being an Army officer).

These initial three months were the first of two "unstructured" quarters prior to beginning my advanced studies at a Moroccan university.  No set timelines; no bosses; just me making the most of my time abroad.  Prior to beginning this unchartered period, my goals were limited, focusing on language proficiency, traveling and socialization.

More specifically, I wanted to become familiar with the local dialect, continue my understanding of Arabic and travel around the country (and part of Europe) to see the cultures and begin interacting with people.  During this time, however, I took stock of my unique situation and set two more goals.

First, I added an academic goal: Understand the local and regional history and current political climate in order to assist my transition to the university in the fall.  Second, and professionally speaking, I sought to get back in shape.  Though neither of these were ground-breaking given my situation, I've structured them a little more than originally intended and feel they warrant a little attention.

Bottom line: I don't feel that I've met my language goals; however, I think I've met or exceeded my travel, socialization, academic and professional goals.

(1) Language proficiency has been difficult.  Some of this has been self-induced; some of it has been a result of this unique country and my prior training.  At the onset, I wanted to sustain my level of Arabic proficiency, begin to understand the local dialect (Darija) and begin to familiarize myself with French.  I've done none of them to the level I wanted.

On my own accord, I've not sought opportunities to practice speaking Arabic with the locals as much as I could.  To keep up the speaking part of my language proficiency, I've tended to predominantly speak with cab drivers, restaurant staff and private instructors.  Having my own vehicle has limited my exposure to the first set while my desire to get back in shape (and subsequently diet) has curbed the number of the second group.  Not wanting to pay out of pocket for private instruction has subsequently decreased the third set.  This hasn't been by design or all-inclusive.  I've improved my speaking abilities in some areas, such as fluency and pronunciation; however, my vocabulary has decreased.  If your reading this as a future scholar and language is your most important goal, seek out like-minded local nationals more vigilantly than I have!

Regarding the situation, it's just been difficult to find people with whom to speak in Arabic.  No one in the streets appears to speak it unless they're making fun of a news broadcast or doing their equivalent to our snobby British accent.  Darija or French are the staples but have been a bridge too far for me to comprehend up to this point.  With my shrinking Arabic vocabulary, I've decided not to pursue learning them after my brief four-week Darija orientation (which was still quite helpful).  Future scholars may benefit from having a basic understanding of the dialect prior to arriving in an Arab country.

In terms of prior training, I don't believe that the program of instruction in Monterey was most beneficial for future foreign area officers or those studying abroad.  There are numerous reasons, but the primary one is the lack of emphasis on speaking that I encountered.  From my estimate, the course was primarily designed not for the speaker but for the linguist, who requires a different skill set.  Though a great course for the linguist, I would recommend that future scholars study Arabic in a different setting prior to beginning their time abroad, if possible.

(2) Traveling has been my highest priority and the one goal that I believe that I've met thus far.  For the first month, I wanted to be familiar with my host city, Rabat.  Complete.  For the second month, I wanted to travel to each corner of the country and see the big cities.  With the exceptions of two corners: complete.  For the third month, the goal was to branch to Europe and revisit Moroccan areas of interest.  Complete.

There are two causes for this high priority.  First, I prefer to do and experience rather than read and theorize.  Why read about these places when you can go to them?  Second, I've not traveled a lot and feel the NEED to get out there.  Not having any travel to Africa or Europe under my belt prior to this experience aside from a short time spent in Germany has made the decision to travel all the easier.  Further, this "unstructured" time is sandwiched between long periods spent "in the books," making the option to travel more guilt-free.

(3) The socialization goal has been a little trickier to gage.  As a rough estimate, I've had mixed successes with getting to know people and establish lasting relationships.  With American and European ex-patriots, I've had more success than anticipated.  It's been easy to find and get to know the various flavors of fellows, travelers and workers here in Rabat.  Most fascinating is the range of motivations and goals that have brought them here.

Less successful, as I've alluded to before, has been my ability to meet locals with whom I've been able to maintain relationships.  Reasons include my irregular schedule, the Arabic / dialect divide and a general common interest gap.  At this point, however, I'm not extremely worried because I've begun reaching out a little more and only see my affiliation growing with local groups over the summer.  Further, the university will provide a common setting for group interaction in the fall.

(4) Regarding my new-found academic goal, I feel that my written and reading language proficiency, travel and this blog have assisted me in obtaining it over the past couple of months.  The first two factors go hand-in-hand with learning the political and historical nuances of this nation and the region.  Being able to read the news and books in Arabic has certainly opened doors to understanding another perspective while being able to visit historical and cultural places provides invaluable context and experiences that tend to stick a little longer than words on paper.

However, the biggest factor that's helped me in this respect has been this blog.  Though I only started recently, I've used the bottom portion of my "scroll" to capture the satellite or internet news, articles from a local periodical and thoughts about the books I'm currently reading.  After posting, I save them to my archives for future use.

The blog has created a forum in which to capture the thoughts; hopefully, the archives save me a little time when I begin my studies in the fall.  Combined, they've given me a larger sense of purpose than self-knowledge: sharing a different perspective with you.  How does the Arab or international media view a particular event?  What are some national concerns outside of America?  How do the Arabs view the crusades?  Though less interesting than visiting Fes or escaping monkeys in Marrakesh's Jamaa el-Fna, they're an important part of my experience.

(5) Another important part of my experience - and career - happens to be my physical fitness.  Fortuitously enough, one of my classmates has provided me a great opportunity to get back in shape as well as contribute to a worthy cause.  As a result, I've re-prioritized my fitness goals a little earlier than I expected by getting back into "marathon shape."

Though I don't want to get into the particulars just yet (can you sense a blog about this later?), my goal has been to finish a 54-mile ultra-marathon in June and raise $2000 to assist Team Red, White and Blue provide advocates to wounded warriors and assist their transition from the war-front to the home-front (donate here).  Given this worthy cause, it's been easy to swap Marlboro's and fatty Tajines for a heart rate monitor and over twenty miles a week in running shoes.  My transition back to the Infantry in a couple years should benefit from this as well!

This was a different approach from my first month's review and will likely continue on a quarterly basis.  If I missed anything or you'd like more specifics, let me know and I'll do my best to oblige.  Until then, you'll hear from me after I explore one of my previously non-visited corners!

Twice as Nice, Marrakesh (Part 2 of 4)

"Look at it this way, Rangers.  If you recycle a phase, you get to know it twice as well."  

-Motivation from one of my Ranger Instructors, Benning Phase, January 2003

In that spirit, today's blog may feel like a "been-there-done-that" passage, as I've already written about Marrakesh following a weekend trip there in January.  In that selection, I was left with a couple impressions.  First, the city's contrasts struck me.  There was the vibrating, rambunctious evening noise and then the dead calm of 8:00 AM.  There were hustling, dirty alleys but behind any of their doors, a luxurious French restaurant or lavishly adorned riad.  Second, the city's vibe stood out (and remains unique) to Marrakesh.  Something about the atmosphere of its souqs and the Jemaa el-Fna separate it from Rabat, Casa, Tangier and Fes.  Street commerce buzzes here.  But, I digress (click here for more, if you missed it).

I took away a little something different this trip.  Undoubtedly the result of expanding the realm of exploration, my new perception of Marrakesh is that the city has a more deep and layered history than I previously realized or gave it credit.  Weaved into the old city's scooter-filled and crowded alleyways are several historical remnants that offer a glimpse into the prominence the city played in Moroccan history over the centuries.  I saw a couple of these examples before, but was a little ignorant of them.  The first site visited was a familiar one, the Koubba Ba'Adiyn.

I stopped by this thing in January and didn't know what I was staring at.  Having read a little beforehand this time, I understood on its surface that it was the only example of Almoravid architecture remaining in Marrakesh from the 12th century.  Built by Ali ben Youssef in 1106 AD, it was originally part of a very ornate mosque that no longer exists.

The Koubba

Next was another familiar site, the Marrakesh Museum.  Built in the late 1800's by Sultan Moulay Mehdi Hassan, the museum housed a contemporary art museum (the same one from January) as well as a hodge-podge of displays dating between the 9th and 19th centuries.  Though not as impressive as the museum's inner courtyard, exhibits from the Alaouite and Idrissid dynasties - who ruled from Marrakesh - shed light on their cultures.

The Museum Courtyard

 The Entrance to the Courtyard

Part of the Contemporary Art Exhibit

After a fairly brisk walk through the museum, we visited the Ben Youssef Medrasa, a Qoranic school that at its peak housed and taught 900 students.  Founded by the Merinid Sultan Abou el-Hassan around 1350 AD, the school was named after the Almorivid mosque from which it was attached.  Magnificent example of symmetric architecture similar to the Bou Inania Medrasa in Fes (that we visited a few days later).

  Inner Courtyard

Door to the Courtyard from above

 All the Walls, Covered with Mosaics

The Front Courtyard Wall

The following evening was spent in the Jamaa el-Fna and the Moroccan medieval times, but when we restarted our cultural tour the next morning, it was at another familiar site, the Koutobia Mosque.  This mosque was established in 1147 AD by the Almohad sultan Abd el-Moumen after victories that vanquished the Almoravids from Marrakesh and the surrounding provinces.  The minaret was the original from which the Hassan Tower in Rabat and the Giralda in Seville were later modeled.  The mosque is so named because of the booksellers (Koutobiyin) that based themselves around it until recently.

Ah!  Snake! 

Raven Henna Stamped in the Jemaa

The Minaret

From there, it was to another dynasty's place of remembrance, the Saadian Tombs.  Originally the site of a necropolis during the Almohad period from 1150 - 1250 AD and continuing during the Merinid period from 1330 - 1350, the Saadian's used the site as grave for their royalty, their families and servants from the 16th to 18th centuries.

 Outer Courtyard

 Tomb after Tomb covered with Ornamental Tile

 Inner Royal Tomb

Buried in Luxury

Next was Bahia Palace, a tribute to "the Favorite" of Sultan Si Moussa, that was completed in the late 19th century. Grand in design and scope, this empty palace reminded us to "go big or go home."  Also, our guide reminded us what "harem" actually means...

 Raven, Learning on Vacation...again

The Ceiling of the Teaching Room

After a quick walk through a Jewish Mellah that once accommodated 16,000 inhabitants, we visited the Si Said Museum.  Built in the late 19th century, this palace was a first for me in that it's building didn't overshadow its contents.  Housing Berber jewelry, pottery from Amizmiz and Taroudannt, Glaoui carpets and Saddian woodwork, the museum appeared more historically relevant / significant than the "Museum of Marrakesh."

 Jewelry from the Middle Atlas

 "I know everything." "No, I know everything!"

A Plain First Level Gave Way to a Very Ornamented Second

To round out the cultural experience, we finished the tour with a stop at the Koutobia and Mamounia gardens, two rose-filled reprieves from the busy streets.

 Statue in the Mamounia Hotel, Churchill's Favorite Marrakesh Hotel back in a day

Raven and Roses

Though the prevalent feeling that runs through my head when I think of Marrakesh is tight, smoke-filled lanes and crowded, scooter-filled alleys better suited for white-nosed tourists and sneaky pick-pockets, I'll remember it's nice to see some things twice...just as long as they're not Benning phase.