Half a Year in Arab Time

Throughout my 3 1/2 years spent in Islamic countries, one expression has entered my ears more than any other except "Enshallah" (God willing).  This oft-used phrase is "Arab time."  Embraced by many of my Arab counterparts, I typically welcome it with a grain of salt, as it implies that minutes, hours, days, etc last just a little longer on an Arab watch than on my Timex.

When I hear the mention of this "phenomenon," I know to expect my Arab counterparts will be late for our meeting or take a little longer to get something done.  Three "western days" equate to five "Arab days," my tanned buddies have been eager to inform me.  It's a little frustrating at times, but those frustrations haven't shown up too often during this, my most recent foray overseas.

So, in the spirit of "Arab Time" (and admittedly writing this report a little late), I won't hesitate to claim this report covers my first six months rather than the seven it truly represents.  It's time again for a little reflection, as I've done at the 1-week, 1-month and 3-month marks of my time in Morocco.  Today, I'll take a look at some of the goals that I've set for my time here and how I think I'm doing at obtaining them.  I classify each as mid-range goals, as I have about two years to accomplish them, and this is the last you'll hear of them until the one-year mark...western time (Enshallah).

Broadly derived from the Olmsted Foundation's mission statement, my goals are to (1) achieve fluency in Arabic, (2) obtain a graduate degree from Al Akhawayn University, (3) understand Moroccan cultures, and (4) return to the Army better equipped to serve as an Infantry Field Grade Officer.  So, today I ask, "Am I off to a good beginning?"  Using a scale from 1 to 10 (1 being the worst), I'll use a loose "issue, discussion, recommendation" format that hopefully provides a reference point to current and future scholars as well as some general information for those of you who are just plain interested or curious.

1.  Achieve Fluency in Arabic - 5 / 10.  This is my lowest score, and I don't know if I'm being hard on myself, the deck's slightly stacked against me or I'm just not working hard enough - probably a little of each.  Regardless, this is the "big one," and I think I need to do three things to complete it: (1) Carry on conversations in Arabic with locals about most non-technical subjects, (2) Watch or listen to Arabic news and standard programming while understanding about 75% of the details, and (3) Read and write in Arabic at a high-school level.

Feeling confident about Goal #1's start has been difficult.  Regarding the first sub-point, it's been rough-going to practice a true "give-and-take" conversation exclusively in Modern Standard Arabic (MSA).  Though a few reasons exist, the most prescient is that some Moroccans actually scoff at speaking in anything other than French or dialect.  Not able to understand either, this has made it difficult to engage in meaningful conversations with the majority of the population.  A few of my friends make a good effort to communicate only in MSA, but unfortunately their efforts are few and far between.  Fortunately, I anticipate this situation will significantly improve when I begin classes in September.

I feel more confident in my ability to do the second and third sub-tasks due to a couple factors.  Not involving "speaking," they are more individual in nature and involve skills in which I have excelled since beginning my studies almost two years ago.  First, regarding listening, I have plenty of opportunities to hear MSA and attempt to understand high-level subjects, as there is no shortage of Arab news channels and programming finding their way through my satellite receivers.  Though some of them are broadcast in Egyptian, Iraqi and Syrian dialect, the majority are exclusively in MSA.  These channels have been free as well since my landlords have "included" satellite payment in the rent.  Another asset has been the radio; typically used only during long road trips, Moroccan radio is about 50/50 MSA and typically covers relevant regional and national news.

The last part - reading and writing - has been an individual endeavor where I've relyed on weekly circulars and old DLI textbooks to continue improving my skills (yes, nunchuck skills).  With the various dictionaries and Google translate assisting this effort, it was my strength in California and remains the strongest of the three sub-tasks thus far in Ifrane.  Further, the periodicals are cheap (usually costing $1.50) and assist my familiarization with the Moroccan government and its current political climate.

Recommendations / "Improves:" Speak daily with locals and convince them to speak in MSA.  I've not done this enough, and my conversations have continued to revolve around a few familiar topics.  Find a one-on-one tutor and meet with him or her weekly, focusing on verbal communication.  Again, I've not done this and probably could've benefited from it.

2.  Obtain a Graduate Degree from Al Akhawayn University - 8 / 10.  Though I haven't started my first class yet, I've completed all admissions requirements and only await orientation to begin in a few weeks.  Until then, a few extracurriculars have helped while a few have been missed but could have been pursued.  First, I've kept in contact with my primary adviser throughout the past year and a half.  Though this contact has been limited, I believe that it's kept me on course with admissions requirements and reading recommendations that will assist me once I begin my classes.

These recommendations lead me to my one acknowledged negative, as I've not been able to access them yet.  Therefore, his advice remains only another task on the "to-do" list.  Back on a positive note, the Office of International Outreach has been invaluable in providing student information through Facebook, covering everything from arrival coordination to first-year recommendations.

Recommendations / Improves: Maintain an active dialogue with three university sections: Admissions, International Outreach (if available) and your future department.  Arrive at your host country with a good computer able to access professional and academic resources.  Having purchased a computer abroad, I've had to jump through digital hoops to set the thing up and still need to download / upload more software before class begins.  It's been a small headache, but an avoidable one nonetheless.

3.  Understand Morocco's Cultures - 9 / 10.  Though I don't want to imply that I "know" Morocco's cultures and am able to differentiate between the various Berber, Arab and French influences, I think I'm onto a good beginning and one that I wouldn't be able to begin during the school year.  The main reason why I think this is because the only way to do it is to travel around the country and see it yourself.  This, I've done to a good degree.  As a result of this thinking, I've prioritized travel over structured language training and physical fitness (in most cases).  Knowing the country's features and how to navigate through them is a large part of understanding the people who live in them.

One may be able to read about Arab hospitality, but it is entirely different experience when you're at the receiving end of a flat-bed truck ferry over a flooded causeway.  Further, reading about festivals and celebrations doesn't include the actual sound of the music, smell of the food or feeling of a muggy sunset on your skin.  Thankfully, I've had time prior to my studies to form a foundation of experiences to build upon.  I have a long way to go before I'll feel comfortable describing the differences between the plethora of cultures in this country, but that should be easier to do with concrete memories!

Recommendation / Improve: Travel as much as possible and see the things that you may not get the chance to explore while working on an advanced degree!  Tons of resources like the Lonely Planet series and "Trip Adviser" are easily accessible and quite helpful.  However, treat them as a guide and not ground truth (as they tend to lose relevancy and may be written through biased eyes).

4.  Return to the Army better equipped to serve as an Infantry Field Grade Officer - 6 / 10.  I've found that this goal requires the most individual determination and has been the most difficult to devote time to toward the beginning of my tenure.  Fortunately, I also believe that some of the sub-tasks required can be put off at the beginning of this experience.  This goal consists of three sub-tasks: (1) Understand how to relate the experience to my next (and future) jobs, (2) Prepare for my future job technically and physically, and (3) Keep in touch with the Infantry community.

Regarding the first task, it's not too early to start thinking generally about how my Moroccan experience can positively influence my future duty assignment; however, with two years remaining, it's still a little early to start consolidating and making sense of individual experiences - I still need to understand the governmental and cultural aspects of my host country far better than I do now.

I've started to continue chipping away at the second task, incorporating the "Military Monday" segment of this blog.  This has already paid some dividends, as I've forced myself to crack old field manuals and look through operational and logistical presentations and documents.  Regarding the physical component, participating in organized races has been helpful, but I've not placed a high premium of staying in "elite" shape due to conflicting travel itineraries cutting into a good routine.  This is one of those aspects where I believe there is still time to get in better shape before returning to the land of "Follow Me!"

The last part of the fourth goal calls for keeping in touch with the Infantry community, which has been one of the more enjoyable "tasks" thus far, as it involves emailing / calling / meeting with old friends and mentors as well as setting up future training and assignment opportunities with my branch.  I've never regretted choosing Infantry as my branch some nine years ago, and maintaining a close bound with it only comes naturally.

Recommendations / Improves: Keep a journal or blog to keep up on experiences; as for me, I forget too much unless I write it down.  The blog has been the one lasting technique that I've ever used to somewhat accomplish this overlooked part of development.  Once a week, get back to your roots and start preparing for the next job.  No one should begin the preparation process on the first day - there just isn't time to do it!

Three Months in the Rear View

A quarter of my first year abroad has passed, and it did so slower than I imagined.  For all that I've heard about how time flies and the two and a half years "will pass before you know it," I have to admit that the first three months haven't felt like it.  I suppose this is the first point of my quarterly review.

For the remainder of this post, I'll take a look at a few of my initial goals and stand them up against how they've transitioned from "planning" to "doing."  These goals regard language proficiency, travel, socialization (meeting people), academics (understanding national and regional politics and history) and my profession (keeping up with being an Army officer).

These initial three months were the first of two "unstructured" quarters prior to beginning my advanced studies at a Moroccan university.  No set timelines; no bosses; just me making the most of my time abroad.  Prior to beginning this unchartered period, my goals were limited, focusing on language proficiency, traveling and socialization.

More specifically, I wanted to become familiar with the local dialect, continue my understanding of Arabic and travel around the country (and part of Europe) to see the cultures and begin interacting with people.  During this time, however, I took stock of my unique situation and set two more goals.

First, I added an academic goal: Understand the local and regional history and current political climate in order to assist my transition to the university in the fall.  Second, and professionally speaking, I sought to get back in shape.  Though neither of these were ground-breaking given my situation, I've structured them a little more than originally intended and feel they warrant a little attention.

Bottom line: I don't feel that I've met my language goals; however, I think I've met or exceeded my travel, socialization, academic and professional goals.

(1) Language proficiency has been difficult.  Some of this has been self-induced; some of it has been a result of this unique country and my prior training.  At the onset, I wanted to sustain my level of Arabic proficiency, begin to understand the local dialect (Darija) and begin to familiarize myself with French.  I've done none of them to the level I wanted.

On my own accord, I've not sought opportunities to practice speaking Arabic with the locals as much as I could.  To keep up the speaking part of my language proficiency, I've tended to predominantly speak with cab drivers, restaurant staff and private instructors.  Having my own vehicle has limited my exposure to the first set while my desire to get back in shape (and subsequently diet) has curbed the number of the second group.  Not wanting to pay out of pocket for private instruction has subsequently decreased the third set.  This hasn't been by design or all-inclusive.  I've improved my speaking abilities in some areas, such as fluency and pronunciation; however, my vocabulary has decreased.  If your reading this as a future scholar and language is your most important goal, seek out like-minded local nationals more vigilantly than I have!

Regarding the situation, it's just been difficult to find people with whom to speak in Arabic.  No one in the streets appears to speak it unless they're making fun of a news broadcast or doing their equivalent to our snobby British accent.  Darija or French are the staples but have been a bridge too far for me to comprehend up to this point.  With my shrinking Arabic vocabulary, I've decided not to pursue learning them after my brief four-week Darija orientation (which was still quite helpful).  Future scholars may benefit from having a basic understanding of the dialect prior to arriving in an Arab country.

In terms of prior training, I don't believe that the program of instruction in Monterey was most beneficial for future foreign area officers or those studying abroad.  There are numerous reasons, but the primary one is the lack of emphasis on speaking that I encountered.  From my estimate, the course was primarily designed not for the speaker but for the linguist, who requires a different skill set.  Though a great course for the linguist, I would recommend that future scholars study Arabic in a different setting prior to beginning their time abroad, if possible.

(2) Traveling has been my highest priority and the one goal that I believe that I've met thus far.  For the first month, I wanted to be familiar with my host city, Rabat.  Complete.  For the second month, I wanted to travel to each corner of the country and see the big cities.  With the exceptions of two corners: complete.  For the third month, the goal was to branch to Europe and revisit Moroccan areas of interest.  Complete.

There are two causes for this high priority.  First, I prefer to do and experience rather than read and theorize.  Why read about these places when you can go to them?  Second, I've not traveled a lot and feel the NEED to get out there.  Not having any travel to Africa or Europe under my belt prior to this experience aside from a short time spent in Germany has made the decision to travel all the easier.  Further, this "unstructured" time is sandwiched between long periods spent "in the books," making the option to travel more guilt-free.

(3) The socialization goal has been a little trickier to gage.  As a rough estimate, I've had mixed successes with getting to know people and establish lasting relationships.  With American and European ex-patriots, I've had more success than anticipated.  It's been easy to find and get to know the various flavors of fellows, travelers and workers here in Rabat.  Most fascinating is the range of motivations and goals that have brought them here.

Less successful, as I've alluded to before, has been my ability to meet locals with whom I've been able to maintain relationships.  Reasons include my irregular schedule, the Arabic / dialect divide and a general common interest gap.  At this point, however, I'm not extremely worried because I've begun reaching out a little more and only see my affiliation growing with local groups over the summer.  Further, the university will provide a common setting for group interaction in the fall.

(4) Regarding my new-found academic goal, I feel that my written and reading language proficiency, travel and this blog have assisted me in obtaining it over the past couple of months.  The first two factors go hand-in-hand with learning the political and historical nuances of this nation and the region.  Being able to read the news and books in Arabic has certainly opened doors to understanding another perspective while being able to visit historical and cultural places provides invaluable context and experiences that tend to stick a little longer than words on paper.

However, the biggest factor that's helped me in this respect has been this blog.  Though I only started recently, I've used the bottom portion of my "scroll" to capture the satellite or internet news, articles from a local periodical and thoughts about the books I'm currently reading.  After posting, I save them to my archives for future use.

The blog has created a forum in which to capture the thoughts; hopefully, the archives save me a little time when I begin my studies in the fall.  Combined, they've given me a larger sense of purpose than self-knowledge: sharing a different perspective with you.  How does the Arab or international media view a particular event?  What are some national concerns outside of America?  How do the Arabs view the crusades?  Though less interesting than visiting Fes or escaping monkeys in Marrakesh's Jamaa el-Fna, they're an important part of my experience.

(5) Another important part of my experience - and career - happens to be my physical fitness.  Fortuitously enough, one of my classmates has provided me a great opportunity to get back in shape as well as contribute to a worthy cause.  As a result, I've re-prioritized my fitness goals a little earlier than I expected by getting back into "marathon shape."

Though I don't want to get into the particulars just yet (can you sense a blog about this later?), my goal has been to finish a 54-mile ultra-marathon in June and raise $2000 to assist Team Red, White and Blue provide advocates to wounded warriors and assist their transition from the war-front to the home-front (donate here).  Given this worthy cause, it's been easy to swap Marlboro's and fatty Tajines for a heart rate monitor and over twenty miles a week in running shoes.  My transition back to the Infantry in a couple years should benefit from this as well!

This was a different approach from my first month's review and will likely continue on a quarterly basis.  If I missed anything or you'd like more specifics, let me know and I'll do my best to oblige.  Until then, you'll hear from me after I explore one of my previously non-visited corners!

A Month by the Numbers and Your Questions Answered

It's been a month already!  In the spirit of reflection, this post is aimed at the "little things" that slipped through the cracks of previous posts.  Here are a few observations by the numbers and answers to your consolidated questions.  

1: Sock "lost" in the bathroom.  Happened on Day 1 with my Moroccan family and was followed by a quick run to the local mini-market.

1: Moroccan "friend" who tried to rip me off while I was looking for an apartment.  Friend-no-more.

1: Haircut.  While sitting in the chair for 30 minutes, this was also the number of words that I understood in the exchange between my Moroccan host and the barber.

1: Program I've seen other than the news regarding the Egyptian (and other) demonstrations shown in any cafe / restaurant.  This program was a soccer game.

2: Bus rides.  Typically crowded and much, much slower than a petite taxi, I've only ridden them twice - both times with my Moroccan host and never again (Enshallah).

2: Hamman visits.  The Moroccan Hammam is famous for its deep cleaning and therapy.  This is also the number of layers of skin I lost each time after the coarse scrubbings!

3: Guys I saw publically peeing downtown in the middle of the day during my first week.  No citations witnessed.

3: Colors for the petite taxis between Rabat (blue), Fes (red) and Marrakesh (green, if I remember correctly).

3: Yellow-colored fingers from smoking.  Time to stop.

4: Midnight strolls with my Moroccan family and friends.  Typically returning at 1:00 AM for dinner, I rather quickly began to opt out of this routine after the first week.

4: Round-trip train tickets purchased.  Easily the most reliable and efficient way to travel between the big cities.

5: Times per day the Mosque down the street echoes out the "Call to Prayer" for the devote Muslims.  Like America, there is the religiously devoted and everyone else.  Life doesn't stop for the call and most people that I've met don't pray but once or twice a day (if at all).

5: Teachers that my classmates and I had in a one-week period while our scheduled dialect teacher was under the weather.  Typically, we would have one instructor; it was a frustrating week because the dialect isn't formally written but still taught in writing and each teacher has their own transcription system.

6: Workout sessions (running mostly) that I've done since arriving (zero regrets thus far).

7: Political and religious conversations that I "enjoyed" with my host family before I opted to cut my stay with them in half.

8: AM - Typical wake up time.

10: Approximate number of times I've almost been hit by a car (while trying to cross the street).  One other time while I wasn't.

12: AM - Typical bed time.

14: Times that I watched the band Queen on DVD with my Moroccan host (and unemployed music composer) during my 14-day stay with them.

20: February - Big demonstration planned in Rabat.  Guess who will attend.

28: Moroccan Dirham (MAD) for lunch today - Chicken Tajine, French Fries, Salad and Coke.  Approximately $3.00 USD.

30: Days of the Arabic / Dialect mix in my head.  It's been a little frustrating at times because about half of the Arabic words work in the dialect.  The trick - so I'm told - is to know which ones (thanks teaching staff).

Picture break: The Rabat Lighthouse  

Now, to some of your questions.  It's taken a little time to feel comfortable answering some of them, as I'm still new and don't want to make many opinions too prematurely.  From your comments, Facebook posts and emails...

Any particular reason for Morocco?  I chose Morocco because I wanted to continue my passing familiarity with Arabic but didn't want to be in a more traditional country in the Middle East or Egypt.  This has been a fortuitous choice so far.  I heard that Morocco was more open to foreigners and was less traditional than its fellow Arab states.  I've found both to be true up to this point.  There's a liquor store down the street, and I don't feel too out of place as I walk around in traditional American clothing.  Further, there's a lot to see and do as well as a multitude of climates and terrain.  Very similar to California in size, feel and climates!


How do they "celebrate" their traditional holidays?  From what I've been told, traditional American holidays, such as Christmas and Easter, are observed here but not treated with the same importance.  There are as many Muslim holidays as there are holidays in the US.  Yesterday, Mohammed's birthday was cause for most shops to close.  Big parties and celebrations are held during Ramadan, Eid Al Fitor and Eid Al Ahad amongst others.  I haven't seen any of them yet, so hold that thought!

Do all children go to school and, if so, up to what age? Do individuals have to pay for college or does the government pay/subsidize? What doe most study (men versus women) and are classes segregated?  I don't have good answers to these questions yet, but give me some time.  For now, there has been continuous educational reforms in the country since the 1950's.  At present, there's a mix of boys-only / girls-only and non-segregated schools.  The latter is more typical in the bigger cities while the former remains the norm in the smaller "Rif" villages (from what I've been told by a professor from a university in Meknes).  

What's a "typical" breakfast, lunch, dinner?  A typical breakfast for me is black coffee and some type of bread or croissant.  Lunch is usually whatever the special of the day is at my school.  Choices have ranged from pastilla, tajine, couscous to panina and french fries.  Dinner is a mix of traditional Moroccan dishes and whatever French / foreign restaurant I visit.  Pizza is also a big dish here, available at most restaurants.  


What are your travel plans?  For this first month, I wanted to travel around Rabat and see everything worth seeing in my host city.  I feel that I've done that (for the most part) and will now branch out to the rest of Morocco for the next couple of months.  From the northern Rif to the southern Sahara, I hope to see it all!  After that, I'm planning a cross-continent European trip from Portugal to Moscow.  Next summer, after my first year at Al Akhawayn, maybe more Europe or India and the Far East...


What's your program in Rabat like? Is this an immersive year? I guess you take some dialect classes and otherwise try to interact with local people as much as possible?  The program at the school is very flexible.  I'm putting together a piece with my classmates that should describe it better than I could myself.  Hopefully, it will be ready next week!  This is the first year of my two and a half year immersion.  I live in the city, try to limit my visits to the Embassy and attempt to meet new Moroccans daily.  In the fall, I will regain some "structure" and attend Al Akhawayn University in Ifrane for a Master's in International Relations (which, one could argue, is my ultimate administrative goal here).


How is Morocco? Tell me what you think of it! Is it what you expected, more, less? How is the culture there? Are you fitting in?  I've enjoyed everything about Morocco so far!  I've found the people and the culture to be very open and accepting of foreigners / foreign ideas.  Unfortunately, as a result, I've found it somewhat lacking a national identity at times.  For instance at the National Theater, there wasn't a national anthem or introduction in Arabic along with the French/English/Sign welcome.  Personally, most people are welcoming and things are easy to find.  The culture - as I've witnessed in daily life - doesn't appear to fundamentally differ from what we try to accomplish daily in America.  Tomorrow, I'll complete my month of dialect classes (which I've attended almost daily from anywhere between two and six hours).  I interact with people - Moroccan and foreigners alike - daily, mostly for lunch, dinner or evening strolls down Rabat's spacious streets.  I have taken a few days off though and stuck around the apartment watching American movies!


To those who asked these questions, I hope these answers are good enough.  Keep 'em comin!  For those who didn't, feel free to jump in...

Seventh Day Impressions

Generally speaking, it's been a week, though it feels a little longer.  Nothing too exciting so far - I've stuck around Rabat with my host family, lightly toured the city, battled an aching back and attended four dialect classes.  Here are a few first impressions...

Living with my Moroccan family isn't a bad gig.  I had some consternation about it prior to arriving (issues of trust, privacy, security, differences in customs, etc.), but it's worked out well so far.  Sadiya and Ihssan look out for me as if I'm part of the family (what do you think some of their customs are?).  Though they get paid for me to stay with them, that hasn't appeared to influence the way they treat me, one way or another.  Aside from the hospitable companionship, it's been a great way to practice the dialect, as Sadiya doesn't speak Modern Standard Arabic (which I find a little amazing), and Ihssan is no professor of it!  Oddly enough, Sadiya listens to the Qu'ran being read in it every morning (does she understand it but can't speak it?). 

Learning Darija (the local dialect) is tough!  I assumed incorrectly that it would be very similar to Modern Standard Arabic (if it is, I don't see it yet).  In fact, there are more differences than I imagined, and so far it's proven insanely difficult to understand the spoken dialect outside of the textbook (which was made by some outstanding linguist working fr the Peace Corps).  It doesn't help that I still think in English, want to use words from Modern Standard Arabic, but have to speak in the dialect.  I'm confident that it'll come (any tips on how to make its arrival get here quicker?), but for now I have a couple Arabic angels whispering into my ears.  The guy on the left speaks Arabic; the guy on the right speaks dialect.  Between sits a confuzed American...

When in Rabat...do as the Moroccans.  Lifestyles between us - not surprisingly - differ.  There are no schedules, timelines, deadlines or immediate concerns in our household.  As a result, I'm not too concerned about keeping up the routines of my American life (doing homework, running, going to the gym, not smoking the occassional cigarette or shaving my scruff daily) (what's a routine you wouldn't mind quitting for a while?).  The observed differences haven't differed too much from my past experiences abroad, but it's nice to be able to participate in them for once!  And, for the time being, I'll happily continue to do so until I find a place of my own...

A handful of interesting situations have sprung up so far; pending time, your interest and my ability to capture them, you'll hear about them shortly (any requests?)...