Citizens of the World visit the Pub and the Mosque

Play it again, Sam!

In 1943, an unbelievably timely tale set in northwest Africa told the story of an exiled American running the most popular nightspot in town.  After the cynical ex-patriot comes into possession of two valuable letters of transit, trouble ensues as an underground leader requests them, a German deputy seeks to stop him and a French police captain tries to hustle the lot of them for his benefit.  And then there was Ilsa...


More unbelievably is that "Casablanca" only won three Academy Awards while it still stands the test of time arguably better than any other American film since.  Despite being filmed in the US and more accurately depicting Tangier, the movie has made its mark on the city for which it was named.  

Overlooking the port, Rick's is open from 12 - 3 and 6 - 1.

Opened seven years ago in an old mansion on the outskirts of the economic capital's tiny old medina, "Rick's Cafe" is a worthy throwback to Rick Blaine's old pub, despite lacking some of the original's charm.  Sitting between Sam's piano and Sascha's bar for lunch earlier today, traditionally-adorned waiters and waitresses served us western grub as a quiet middle-aged woman and an even quieter Asian couple replaced nefarious German military governors and flip-flopping Frenchmen.

Three stories of movie-inspired furniture and accouterments adorn the restaurant; here, the middle of the lobby raises to the roof.

Though the pub wasn't exactly jumping with activity, I enjoyed my chicken salad, shrimp and black noodles as "As Time Goes By" whispered through the walls and the over-staffed lobby waited for some work.  Afterward, a free postcard greeted us on the way out, and I was reminded of one of the film's quips as we began our walk to the Hassan II Mosque...

Major Strasser: What is your nationality?  

Rick: I'm a drunkard. 

Captain Renault: That makes Rick a citizen of the world. 

25,000 Muslims can pray indoors while another 80,000 are able to pray outside.  

The former king's project was built between 1987 and 1993 with government funds and one of the country's more controversial tax initiatives.  When finished, it was the second-largest religious building in the world after the mosque in Mecca, sprawling over almost a million square feet.

Over 35,000 craftsmen labored on the mosque.

With two-thirds of the mosque extended over the sea (in tribute to one of the Qoran's surras), the mosque is home to the largest minaret in world.  Measuring at 200m tall (over two football fields), the minaret is adorned with two laser beams that extend 35 km (20 miles) in the direction of Mecca after dusk.

After a 30-minute walk from the train station, we finally reached the mosque that appeared to never arrive. 

Getting inside wasn't difficult, as tours are given four times a day Monday through Saturday.  This mosque is one of a country's few religious sites that allows non-Muslims entry into its gigantic interior.  Composed of an underground hammam, multiple ablution rooms as well as giant prayer halls, the structure's ornamentation is only outdone by its massive scale.

Part of the Hammam, which is not actually used for traditional bathing.

41 Fountains fill one part of the Ablution Room, each capable of resting 8 Muslim backsides as they scrub feet and hands.

Though conspicuously empty of any furniture, the main prayer hall measures 200m long by 100m, with a central fountain that runs the length of its polished floor under a sliding dome roof that can be opened to air out a full house and complete the triumvirate of earth, water and air.

The Length of the Main Prayer Hall

The Prayer Hall Looking out to the Sea.

In the Center, the Imam's "Pulpit," Facing Mecca.

Underneath one of the Women's Galleries, capable of accommodating 5,000 women.

Throughout the tour, we didn't see most of the mosque's 41 fountains, 56 chandeliers or 360 interior loud speakers, but our guide pointed out the main water path running along the prayer hall's center, a handful of the Venician-made light fixtures and the granite columns that tactfully hid the speaker boxes.

Underneath the Minaret, One of Italy's Chandeliers.

Diagonally, a Ceder-made Stairwell raises to the Women's Prayer Hall.

Some of that Agadir Granite with one of the rare examples of painted (and not carved) ornamentation.

Back outside, we were informed that less than 20,000 devoted typically attend the hour-long Friday service, but that number jumps to about 100,000 daily during Ramadan for services three times as long.

One of the Iron Doors lining the Mosque's Exterior.

Another set of Doors.

This was my second time to the mosque but first inside it.  Walking through the cavernous interior, I couldn't help but reflect on a couple of Ghent's huge cathedrals and draw comparisons, or lack thereof.  The mosque held nothing inside; the cathedrals statues, pews, pulpits, organs and more.  Here, the structure was grand; there, the aforementioned articles.  Above the pews, a priest stands between you and God while those statues invite sideways peeks; kneeling above the granite here, one could safely say there's nothing between you and Him but your conversation.

If you're in the area and want to make a trip, you can do so between Monday and Saturday at 9, 10, 11 and 3.  Cost is 120 MAD for adults, 60 MAD for Moroccans/adult students and 30 MAD for students.  Tickets and the reception is located on the southern end of the complex down a flight of stairs.