Ghent's Monuments (Part 3 of 5)

Monumental architecture expressed civic pride and identity, it was said, reinforcing the elite's dominance of the masses.  Monumental architecture--especially the citadel - was a "signpost to permanence," reflecting and reinforcing the control ideology of the state.

"Africa," John Reader, 1997

Brussels was nice; Ghent was great.  Being one of the country's smaller "big" cities - and less popular than Bruges or Antwerp - this plucky city has managed to keep most of its historical culture in tact.  From the year 1000 to around 1550, Ghent was one of the most important cities in Europe.  It was bigger than London and only smaller than Paris.  Most locals today would also point out that the attitude of its 60,000 citizens was proud and obstinate.  Until the Battle of the Golden Spurs in 1302, the city was ruled by rich merchant families; afterwards, the French gained and kept control for a couple generations.

This control ceded to the English in 1345 during the Hundred Years' War as trade and imports required Ghent to side with the British.  After another hundred years, power shifted to the Count of Flanders and then to his heirs until the country gained its independence in 1830.  At that point, the city's economy faded for the next thirty years as ports in Antwerp and Bruges became more popular.

After a rebound in the economy and relatively minimal bomb damage through the two great wars, Ghent's historical heritage has remained largely intact until today, leaving plenty of monumental architecture to remind its citizens - and tourists - of its proud identity.

From my perspective, Ghent was beautiful.  Between cobblestone streets, canals slowly winding through downtown and 14th century architecture deserving to be photographed around every corner, the city kept me occupied during my brief stay.  Though numerous buildings stood out along our tour, four monuments define the city for me: The Gravensteen Castle, Saint Nicholas' Church, The Belfry and Saint Bavo's Cathedral.

Eight euro gets you admission to The Gravensteen Castle and its museum.  While Gaelle and I swam through a sea of elementary and high school kids, we got our own military and cultural history lesson within the 12th century castle.  Separated into three sections (military, cultural and torture), weaponry, restoration plans and barbaric methods of coercion made shed a little light into some of Christianity's achievements...and shortfalls.

 The Gravensteen Castle

 The entry to the military museum

 15th and 16th century picks

 6th, 15th and 16th century throwing axes

 15th century chain armor

17th century crossbow

Though interesting, not entirely relevant

 Two of the many methods of torture on display; the most industrious below

Across the Saint Michael's bridge, I discovered a slightly newer monument, The Saint Nicholas' Church.  Built in the 13th century and restored since 1960's, this place of worship was smaller than Saint Bavo's but held its own regarding interior decorations.  It's tower is the first in the row, as the Belfry and Saint Bavo's Cathedral towers trail it in the distance.

 (from left to right) St Nick's, The Belfry and St Bavo's

 St Nick's from the east

 The Alter

12 life-size saintly statues surround the congregation

Behind the Alter (the two statues at the bottom are life-size)

Built in 1313, the 91-meter-high Belfry sits between the Catholic landmarks. A UNESCO World Heritage site since 1999 this monument was primarily used to protect the city from invaders and the spread of fires.  While most belfries traditionally are adorned with a wind gage, Ghent's tower sits below a golden dragon that's been on the job for centuries.  This monument has also served as the city's timekeeper and administrative center, not to mention canvas to one of the city's urban legends.

 The Belfry and its dragon

A memorial to one of the city's urban legends

The last of Ghent's monuments is also its grandest, the 12th century Saint Bavo's Cathedral.  Housing 21 chapels around its alter as well as a huge basement crypt for Ghent's Bishops, the Cathedral also plays host to one of Belgium's most prized pieces of art, The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb.  Painted by Hubert and Jan van Eyck, this piece is considered one of the greatest works of the northern renaissance.

 St Bavo's from the Belfry

 Inside at the limit of photography

 17th century scripture

One of the paintings in the crypt

A recreation of the Mystic Lamb

For your viewing pleasure, I've added some more of Ghent's cultural side; however, they don't quite add up to one of the city's most appealing traits: its attitude.  But, that will be served another day.

Statue of the Painters of the Mystic Lamb

Statue of Jacob Van Artevelde, protector of the city

The "beach" of Greslie and Korenlei

The Post Office

 City Hall, half post-renaissance, half gothic

The top of the Maison's building