After a day of strolling through Amsterdam's outdoor attractions, I was ready to explore some indoor culture. Luckily, the city has plenty to offer within its downtown district and over two days, I visited the majority of "Lonely Planet: Europe" recommendations.
Stops at the Van Gogh Museum, Rijks Museum, Anne Frank House, Rembrandt Museum and the Heineken Experience complemented all of Amsterdam's interesting exterior sights and smells. Highlighting the city's artistic history, most of the attractions I visited were well-worth one or two hours and a return visit. Together, they provided a three-sided view of Amsterdam's presence within the histories of art, World War II and beer brewing.
My first stop was to the Van Gogh Museum. Housing more than 200 pieces of art, the museum contains more Van Gogh works than any other site - including its sister museum in Paris. Having forgotten more art history than I can remember, I was surprised to re-learn that Vincent Van Gogh only painted for about ten years at the end of the 19th century.
An Amsterdam native, he was heavily influenced by Japanese art but started painting simple, dark works that he entitled "The Potato Eaters." Not well-received by the art community of the time, he moved to Paris, befriended Parisian artists and subsequently adapted some of their techniques (which were more colorful and focused on still life and nature).
His artistry evolved through several periods, including pointillism (dabbing the brush on the canvas in a series of variously-colored dots that - at its conclusion - creates an image from afar). Epilepsy forced him to self-admit into a mental hospital with only one full ear, but he continued to paint until he left a few short years later.
Focusing on the Golden Age of Dutch Influence, the Rijks Museum contained paintings, brass work, doll houses, earthen works and other examples of 17th century Dutch artistry. Not affected by on-going renovation efforts, the museum still featured numerous works from artists such as Rembrandt, Johannes Vermeer and several others.
The audio guide was one of the most interesting I've heard over the past few months, whittling through the overwhelming number of works to actually guide the listener. It pointed me towards works such as a large canvas of the 17th century Berghers, two doll houses, ceramic tulip holders, a birdcage, dozens of paintings - including Rembrandt's The Night Watch - and a model battleship from the Dutch East India Company. Combined, each of the pieces created a multi-faceted tour that effortlessly demonstrated Holland's Golden Age through blended examples of naval power, trade, art and craftsmanship.
Easily the longest line (or queue) led into the Anne Frank House, a modern reconstruction of the Frank's World War II annex. Here, the museum not only recounts the Frank's persecution and hiding from 1942 to 1944, it also contains an interactive display that stands against discrimination of every type around the world today.
Winding through a series of tight stairwells and beneath a fake bookshelf, visitors make their way through empty rooms that were used as the father, Otto Frank's, downstairs shop, his upstairs offices and the family's hiding quarters in the upper three levels. A little larger than I expected, the upstairs annex housed eight family members and friends for over two years before an unidentified informant contacted Nazi security forces to turn them in.
The family was shipped to Auschwitz, where all of them died except for the patriarch. Upon returning to Amsterdam, Otto recovered his daughter's journals from family friends and had it published in accordance with Anne's wishes. Though tears welled in the eyes of most visitors throughout the house, the most touching part of the tour was in the attic, where a video of Otto was shown.
In it, he recalled how quiet and stoic Anne had been throughout the family's persecution. He confessed that only after reading her journal did he begin to know his daughter and understand how the ordeal affected her. With utmost sadness and despair in his face, he closed with the conclusion that no parent truly knows his or her child. I couldn't help but wonder if his theory would differ if he was given more time.
Late in his life, Amsterdam's pioneering artist was forced from his upscale home due to financial hardships. But, after years of consulting auction inventories and bills of sale, the museum was able to recover or recreate most of the furniture, artwork, prints, sketches and sculptures that filled Rembrandt Harmensz van Rijn's personal home and studio.
Set in a five-story building, the Rembrandt Museum brought out more aesthetic curiosities common in 17th-century Dutch architecture than original works by the master. The audio-tour began in the kitchen and was quick to highlight that people were shorter four centuries ago. Small doors stood less than six feet high, an almost-miniature sink could still be reached by a kneeling Bessey and a shortened bed chamber was no longer than four feet (people apparently slept sitting upright out of fear of dying in their sleep due to sudden blood flow to the head). From there, the tight and winding stairwells leading from room to room were further testament of size differences between the building's inhabitants and those of us today.
In the rooms, over fifty original paintings were displayed, but most were works of Rembrandt's pupils and teachers. I only spotted one, Bust of an Old Man with Turban, that carried Rembrandt's mark though numerous displayed prints came from his hand. A quaint dwelling, I was most interested in his model room. Inside, various Roman busts, corral specimens, stuffed wildlife and foreign artifacts provided him and his artists real-world reference as they created their works.
The Heineken family has been brewing beer for over 120 years, and though I've probably drank more of their 12-ouncers than that in the past year alone, I didn't know that the beer originated in Amsterdam. Including a walk through the brewing process as well as several interactive activities, the "experience" was a solid attempt at describing the brewing process, but was too mainstream for my liking.
Aside from a "4-D Experience" that gave a 6-minute video tour of the brewing process, it did not include much about the beer-making process aside from some wort sampling midway through. Instead, visitors could personalize Heineken beer labels, skim foam from freshly-poured draughts and participate in mock music videos and movie promos...all for a modest additional cost. To offset any lasting bitterness, two free beers finished the experience.
Stops at the Van Gogh Museum, Rijks Museum, Anne Frank House, Rembrandt Museum and the Heineken Experience complemented all of Amsterdam's interesting exterior sights and smells. Highlighting the city's artistic history, most of the attractions I visited were well-worth one or two hours and a return visit. Together, they provided a three-sided view of Amsterdam's presence within the histories of art, World War II and beer brewing.
The Van Gogh Museum
Located between the Rijks and - Museums, The Van Gogh Museum houses the more Van Gogh originals than anyplace else.
My first stop was to the Van Gogh Museum. Housing more than 200 pieces of art, the museum contains more Van Gogh works than any other site - including its sister museum in Paris. Having forgotten more art history than I can remember, I was surprised to re-learn that Vincent Van Gogh only painted for about ten years at the end of the 19th century.
Top: Haymaking by Leon Augustin Lhermitte, 1887. Measuring 216 x 264 cm, it served as a strong example of style and form that Van Gogh used in his beginning. Below: A Pair of Leather Clogs, by Van Gogh (32 x 40 cm).
An Amsterdam native, he was heavily influenced by Japanese art but started painting simple, dark works that he entitled "The Potato Eaters." Not well-received by the art community of the time, he moved to Paris, befriended Parisian artists and subsequently adapted some of their techniques (which were more colorful and focused on still life and nature).
Above: The Cottage. Oil on Canvas. One of Van Gogh's first works in 1885. Below: The Potato Eaters, also from 1885. The dark style was contrary to artwork of the time but served the artist's purpose well by highlighting the simple, working life that he attempted to portray.
His artistry evolved through several periods, including pointillism (dabbing the brush on the canvas in a series of variously-colored dots that - at its conclusion - creates an image from afar). Epilepsy forced him to self-admit into a mental hospital with only one full ear, but he continued to paint until he left a few short years later.
Van Gogh's The Sower, November 1888.
The Rijks Museum
The Rijks Museum, Amsterdam's tribute to Dutch 17th-century dominance.
Focusing on the Golden Age of Dutch Influence, the Rijks Museum contained paintings, brass work, doll houses, earthen works and other examples of 17th century Dutch artistry. Not affected by on-going renovation efforts, the museum still featured numerous works from artists such as Rembrandt, Johannes Vermeer and several others.
Top: Still Life with gilt Goblet by Willem Claesz, 1635. Bottom: Rembrandt's The Stone Bridge.
The audio guide was one of the most interesting I've heard over the past few months, whittling through the overwhelming number of works to actually guide the listener. It pointed me towards works such as a large canvas of the 17th century Berghers, two doll houses, ceramic tulip holders, a birdcage, dozens of paintings - including Rembrandt's The Night Watch - and a model battleship from the Dutch East India Company. Combined, each of the pieces created a multi-faceted tour that effortlessly demonstrated Holland's Golden Age through blended examples of naval power, trade, art and craftsmanship.
Left: The Milkmaid by Johannes Vermeer, 1658-1660. Right: The Doll House of Petronella Oortman, c. 1686 - 1710
Top: Rembrandt's The Night Watch, c. 1642. Bottom: Hendrick Avercamp's Winter Landscape with Skaters, c. 1608
The Anne Frank House
Not what I was expecting: An ultra modern exterior to the Anne Frank House.
Easily the longest line (or queue) led into the Anne Frank House, a modern reconstruction of the Frank's World War II annex. Here, the museum not only recounts the Frank's persecution and hiding from 1942 to 1944, it also contains an interactive display that stands against discrimination of every type around the world today.
Winding through a series of tight stairwells and beneath a fake bookshelf, visitors make their way through empty rooms that were used as the father, Otto Frank's, downstairs shop, his upstairs offices and the family's hiding quarters in the upper three levels. A little larger than I expected, the upstairs annex housed eight family members and friends for over two years before an unidentified informant contacted Nazi security forces to turn them in.
The family was shipped to Auschwitz, where all of them died except for the patriarch. Upon returning to Amsterdam, Otto recovered his daughter's journals from family friends and had it published in accordance with Anne's wishes. Though tears welled in the eyes of most visitors throughout the house, the most touching part of the tour was in the attic, where a video of Otto was shown.
In it, he recalled how quiet and stoic Anne had been throughout the family's persecution. He confessed that only after reading her journal did he begin to know his daughter and understand how the ordeal affected her. With utmost sadness and despair in his face, he closed with the conclusion that no parent truly knows his or her child. I couldn't help but wonder if his theory would differ if he was given more time.
The Rembrandt Museum
Rembrandt's 17th-century home and studio.
Late in his life, Amsterdam's pioneering artist was forced from his upscale home due to financial hardships. But, after years of consulting auction inventories and bills of sale, the museum was able to recover or recreate most of the furniture, artwork, prints, sketches and sculptures that filled Rembrandt Harmensz van Rijn's personal home and studio.
Set in a five-story building, the Rembrandt Museum brought out more aesthetic curiosities common in 17th-century Dutch architecture than original works by the master. The audio-tour began in the kitchen and was quick to highlight that people were shorter four centuries ago. Small doors stood less than six feet high, an almost-miniature sink could still be reached by a kneeling Bessey and a shortened bed chamber was no longer than four feet (people apparently slept sitting upright out of fear of dying in their sleep due to sudden blood flow to the head). From there, the tight and winding stairwells leading from room to room were further testament of size differences between the building's inhabitants and those of us today.
A tiny kitchen...
...and even smaller bed.
In the rooms, over fifty original paintings were displayed, but most were works of Rembrandt's pupils and teachers. I only spotted one, Bust of an Old Man with Turban, that carried Rembrandt's mark though numerous displayed prints came from his hand. A quaint dwelling, I was most interested in his model room. Inside, various Roman busts, corral specimens, stuffed wildlife and foreign artifacts provided him and his artists real-world reference as they created their works.
Rembrandt's "Turban"
The room of models: busts to the left, shields center and artifacts to the right.
The Heineken Experience
Welcome to another beer tour!
The Heineken family has been brewing beer for over 120 years, and though I've probably drank more of their 12-ouncers than that in the past year alone, I didn't know that the beer originated in Amsterdam. Including a walk through the brewing process as well as several interactive activities, the "experience" was a solid attempt at describing the brewing process, but was too mainstream for my liking.
Aside from a "4-D Experience" that gave a 6-minute video tour of the brewing process, it did not include much about the beer-making process aside from some wort sampling midway through. Instead, visitors could personalize Heineken beer labels, skim foam from freshly-poured draughts and participate in mock music videos and movie promos...all for a modest additional cost. To offset any lasting bitterness, two free beers finished the experience.
The many faces of Heineken over the years.
Wort does not taste good!
...but the end product does: cheers!
Here's to my buddies in Morocco: Ramadan Mubarek!
The brewing vats, where a four-step process of steeping, brewing, lautering and cooking take place to create Wort.
Art and beer! Now you are talking my language. I will have to put Amsterdam on my list. Before I could get my husband to see all that art, we would have to start with the beer. And yesterday you mentioned bicycles - I think I can talk him to visiting Amsterdam now!
ReplyDeleteI loved all the art in Italy, but got tired of the religious theme. Dutch art with its depiction of everyday life is more interesting, and Van Gogh is always unique. Right now I'd like to see the Picasso and Braque show at the Kimbell in Ft. Worth - it's not Amsterdam, but it's what I got.