Have you ever felt like you were just meant for a place? After an easy entry into Cordoba, a warm welcome by the Hesperia hotel, and a hassle-free afternoon in the Mezquita Cathedral and surrounding area, I feel at home under the north Andalusian sun.
My spirits certainly weren't dampened by the early-morning drive from Granada. Prescribed at two-and-a-half hours from eastern Granada, I was actually on the road for a little less than two. Along the way, olive and orange trees formed up and marched over rolling foothills like divisions of Soldiers advancing by foot. A cool orange-scented breeze flowed through cracked truck windows, sometimes carrying a warm hint of fresh cow manure.
Overlooking the fields of olive and orange between Granada and Cordoba.
Fields of Orange...
...and Fields of Olive.
Ahead of schedule, I coasted over the lip of a mountain bowl with the city of Cordoba below, red-tiled roofs floating in a see of white and tanned walls. After less than ten minutes, I arrived at my destination: the heart of the city and its Mezquita (Mosque) Cathedral. This was a little better than my Granada arrival a couple days ago, which took around 30 minutes and included my first breathalyzer test...ever.
An early check-in on the southern side of the Guadalquivir River made it easy to get a room, drop my stuff and mozy on over to the Mosque Cathedral directly on the other side. Like Alhambra the day before, the Mezquita Cathedral was my only Cordoban travel destination.
The Mezquita Cathedral with the Roman Bridge in the foreground. Built by Abd Ar-Rahman I beginning in 786 AD, his mosque was constructed on top of the ruins of St Vincent's Cathedral (600 AD).
Simply put, the Mezquita is my new favorite summer destination, bumping Saint Peter's Basilica from the top spot. The reasons are various but simple. The biggest one is that it somehow managed to effortlessly balance Islamic and Catholic architecture in the same structure. The core of the site is a Catholic Church, but around it is a full Mosque. Around three walls of the Mosque sit over 45 Catholic chapels, but to get to them one needs to pass through an Islamic courtyard that is overlooked by a Catholic bell tower. Somehow, it works. And for a non-practicing Catholic studying Arabic in an Islamic country, this place was both personally and professionally relevant.
On top of the visually-stunning architectural meld, the audio guide was well-organized, highly specific and informative of both religions, their leaders and their influence on the site. After walking, listening and writing for two and a half hours, I felt like I learned something...and that I enjoyed learning something - and that doesn't happen much! As an aside, this site was also the first of any of my summer visits to have a pamphlet in Arabic. So, sit back and learn along with me; I brought the big camera, so I hope you enjoy the photos!
Abd Ar-Rahman I's son began the courtyard in the early 9th century. Now palm, orange, olive, bead and Cyprus trees provide visitors a reprieve from the hot sun.
The first capilla (chapel) I saw was dedicated to Saints Augusta and Eulalia. It was also the most golden of the 50 or so chapels.
In the initial mosque, Abd Ar-Rahman I's design featured columns (no bases) and double arch designs influenced by architects from Jerusalem and Damascus, respectively. Able to accommodate 5,000 worshipers, it was the largest mosque in the world at the time.
Capilla (chapel) of the Crucifixion; Saints Simon (left) and Judas bear witness.
Blocked off, I couldn't bypass the black gate in front of the Chapel of the Immaculate Conception, which was described as the most important chapel in the cathedral. Finished in 1679, this chapel features a statue of the Virgin Mary as well as a marble dome and oil painting of the patron saint of Cordoba.
The chapel of San Anton.
The nave leading to the rear of the Choir. Added by Abd Ar-Rahman II in 822, this section increased the mosque's occupancy to about 9,500.
The High Alter: Flanked by Saints Peter and Paul, the alter's mahogany pulpits depict scenes from the life of Christ and deeds of his apostles.
The Choir: black mahogany lined with golden trim. At the top of the carving sits Archangel Rafeal, the Protector of Cordoba. To both sides, scenes of the Old Testament and Cordoban Saints fill the alcove.
The Choir roof was said to have been inspired by Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel.
Surrounding the inner Choir and High Alter, double arches create dozens of aisles in the old mosque.
The Bell Tower replaced the Mouazzine as the primary means of calling worshipers to prayer.
The Mihrab is the focal piece of all mosques. Next to this one is the old treasury, which held prayer mats, oils and the Q'uran.
The Chapel of Saint Theresa held a tomb designed to reflect Bernini's designs in Saint Peter's Basilica.
But, as usual, I stumbled upon a couple other sites worth a few minutes and a couple clicks of the digital camera. The best off-site was the Jewish Mellah (neighborhood) directly to the west of the Mezquita. Immaculately clean and well-organized, I couldn't help but contrast it to Arab architecture which typically doesn't put much effort into exterior aesthetics or upkeep. Between the Cathedral and the Mellah, monuments lined the narrow stone-pocked streets.
The Mellah, not more than a few cigarette butts were the only items out of place.
Sitting in the SW corner of the Plaza del Triunfo, the Monument of the Crucifixion of Christ.
The northern arch of the Roman Bridge.
Saint Victoria, one of the city's patron saints, perched midway over the Roman Bridge.
A Hail of Churros...
- The Mosque Cathedral was a mix of Islamic and Christian influence. Nearby, a bridge was named after the Romans, and on the other end, sat the Jewish Mellah. Within each (excluding the bridge), architectural designs intertwined.
- Weather: Hot but dry. No clouds makes this area feel a bit like Phoenix, Arizona.
- Town Atmosphere: Quiet, almost too quiet. Maybe I wasn't in the busy district, maybe it was Monday, but I didn't get a big "busy" vibe either downtown or near the major attractions.
- Population: About 323,000 (almost 20,000 more than Granada), but Cordoba has a much smaller feel to it.
- Admission to Mezquita: Cheap (8.50 euros); audio-guide: 3.50 euros
- Most Impressive Islamic Piece in the Mezquita: The Mihrab. Lined with floral motifs, various types of marble and gold, this spot is the focal point in any mosque and usually faces Mecca. Oddly enough, this one faced due south instead.
- Most Impressive Catholic Piece in the Mezquita: The High Alter. Also its religion's focal point, the alter was adorned quite differently from its Islamic counterpart as it was surrounded by statues of Saints Paul, Peter, James as well as scenes from the life of Christ and the deeds of the Apostles.
- Over 45 chapels (most of them larger than 3m x 3m x 5m) lined the outer wall of the Cathedral. All motifs, statues and other contents therein were locked behind black bars.
- According to the auido guide, at least two works - a tomb in Saint Theresa's chapel and the Choir's ceiling - were designed to reflect greater pieces in the Vatican.
- In three words, the Mezquita was A Blend of Religious Harmony.
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