Twice as Nice, Marrakesh (Part 2 of 4)

"Look at it this way, Rangers.  If you recycle a phase, you get to know it twice as well."  

-Motivation from one of my Ranger Instructors, Benning Phase, January 2003

In that spirit, today's blog may feel like a "been-there-done-that" passage, as I've already written about Marrakesh following a weekend trip there in January.  In that selection, I was left with a couple impressions.  First, the city's contrasts struck me.  There was the vibrating, rambunctious evening noise and then the dead calm of 8:00 AM.  There were hustling, dirty alleys but behind any of their doors, a luxurious French restaurant or lavishly adorned riad.  Second, the city's vibe stood out (and remains unique) to Marrakesh.  Something about the atmosphere of its souqs and the Jemaa el-Fna separate it from Rabat, Casa, Tangier and Fes.  Street commerce buzzes here.  But, I digress (click here for more, if you missed it).

I took away a little something different this trip.  Undoubtedly the result of expanding the realm of exploration, my new perception of Marrakesh is that the city has a more deep and layered history than I previously realized or gave it credit.  Weaved into the old city's scooter-filled and crowded alleyways are several historical remnants that offer a glimpse into the prominence the city played in Moroccan history over the centuries.  I saw a couple of these examples before, but was a little ignorant of them.  The first site visited was a familiar one, the Koubba Ba'Adiyn.

I stopped by this thing in January and didn't know what I was staring at.  Having read a little beforehand this time, I understood on its surface that it was the only example of Almoravid architecture remaining in Marrakesh from the 12th century.  Built by Ali ben Youssef in 1106 AD, it was originally part of a very ornate mosque that no longer exists.

The Koubba

Next was another familiar site, the Marrakesh Museum.  Built in the late 1800's by Sultan Moulay Mehdi Hassan, the museum housed a contemporary art museum (the same one from January) as well as a hodge-podge of displays dating between the 9th and 19th centuries.  Though not as impressive as the museum's inner courtyard, exhibits from the Alaouite and Idrissid dynasties - who ruled from Marrakesh - shed light on their cultures.

The Museum Courtyard

 The Entrance to the Courtyard

Part of the Contemporary Art Exhibit

After a fairly brisk walk through the museum, we visited the Ben Youssef Medrasa, a Qoranic school that at its peak housed and taught 900 students.  Founded by the Merinid Sultan Abou el-Hassan around 1350 AD, the school was named after the Almorivid mosque from which it was attached.  Magnificent example of symmetric architecture similar to the Bou Inania Medrasa in Fes (that we visited a few days later).

  Inner Courtyard

Door to the Courtyard from above

 All the Walls, Covered with Mosaics

The Front Courtyard Wall

The following evening was spent in the Jamaa el-Fna and the Moroccan medieval times, but when we restarted our cultural tour the next morning, it was at another familiar site, the Koutobia Mosque.  This mosque was established in 1147 AD by the Almohad sultan Abd el-Moumen after victories that vanquished the Almoravids from Marrakesh and the surrounding provinces.  The minaret was the original from which the Hassan Tower in Rabat and the Giralda in Seville were later modeled.  The mosque is so named because of the booksellers (Koutobiyin) that based themselves around it until recently.

Ah!  Snake! 

Raven Henna Stamped in the Jemaa

The Minaret

From there, it was to another dynasty's place of remembrance, the Saadian Tombs.  Originally the site of a necropolis during the Almohad period from 1150 - 1250 AD and continuing during the Merinid period from 1330 - 1350, the Saadian's used the site as grave for their royalty, their families and servants from the 16th to 18th centuries.

 Outer Courtyard

 Tomb after Tomb covered with Ornamental Tile

 Inner Royal Tomb

Buried in Luxury

Next was Bahia Palace, a tribute to "the Favorite" of Sultan Si Moussa, that was completed in the late 19th century. Grand in design and scope, this empty palace reminded us to "go big or go home."  Also, our guide reminded us what "harem" actually means...

 Raven, Learning on Vacation...again

The Ceiling of the Teaching Room

After a quick walk through a Jewish Mellah that once accommodated 16,000 inhabitants, we visited the Si Said Museum.  Built in the late 19th century, this palace was a first for me in that it's building didn't overshadow its contents.  Housing Berber jewelry, pottery from Amizmiz and Taroudannt, Glaoui carpets and Saddian woodwork, the museum appeared more historically relevant / significant than the "Museum of Marrakesh."

 Jewelry from the Middle Atlas

 "I know everything." "No, I know everything!"

A Plain First Level Gave Way to a Very Ornamented Second

To round out the cultural experience, we finished the tour with a stop at the Koutobia and Mamounia gardens, two rose-filled reprieves from the busy streets.

 Statue in the Mamounia Hotel, Churchill's Favorite Marrakesh Hotel back in a day

Raven and Roses

Though the prevalent feeling that runs through my head when I think of Marrakesh is tight, smoke-filled lanes and crowded, scooter-filled alleys better suited for white-nosed tourists and sneaky pick-pockets, I'll remember it's nice to see some things twice...just as long as they're not Benning phase.