While reading about Tangier before our weekend trip, three things interested me about its history: the city appeared to be more internationally influenced than Morocco's other cities, it was apparently more relevant to artists of the "Beat Generation" than I previously thought, and it was later neglected (and subsequently reformed) by the Moroccan government for more than 60 years, which I knew nothing about.
I figure that the first of these interests is directly tied to the city's strategic location. Overlooking the Straight of Gibraltor from the south, the city has owned the primary trade route between Europe and the rest of the world for centuries. Not surprisingly, everyone wanted a piece of it. The list of the city's landowners is long but reads fast: Greeks, Phoenicians, Spanish Vandals, Byzantines, Arabs, Almohads, Portugese, Brits, Moroccans, International (1912 - 1956), Moroccans (after 1956). Walking around the city, I couldn't figure out who was responsible for most of what I saw except for the old medina's "Kasbah" (walled fort).
Though I don't want to understate the importance of the pre-international period, today's Tangier appears to reflect the influence of 20th century foreigners and ex-patriots more than Morocco's other big cities. From World War I to Morocco's independence, almost every European country and the United States owned a piece of the city. Each foreign diplomat, agent and traveler added to the international potpourie and created a wild-west of sorts where most activities went unquestioned. Life in the city was spirited and at times deviant, helping create an atmosphere relevent to my second interest - the "Beat Generation."
Including talent such as Jack Kerouac, Allen Ginsberg, Gregory Curso, William Burroughs, Brion Gynsin and Paul Bowles, the 1950's counterculture - as well as other artistic presences- was alive in Tangier. Note: all previous names were lost on me until recently reading my "Lonely Planet." Each of them either passed through the city or lived in it for various durations. Several of their locales (Hotel Continental, 1001 Nights, Hotel El-Muniria, Cafe de Paris) still stand today, but due to a severe lack of time I didn't visit any of them except for the Cafe Hafa.
My final interest was the past king's reforms and the current king's restoration efforts. After Morocco gained indepence in 1956, King Mohommed V moved the country's cultural and economic gravity south. Money quickly left Tangier, sending it into a period of decline that lasted until about a decade ago when the current king began reviving it with a series of robust commercial and tourist programs. After ten years, the king's efforts are slowly pumping blood back into the international city's veins, but it's been a slow process that will continue for the foreseeable future.
I figure that the first of these interests is directly tied to the city's strategic location. Overlooking the Straight of Gibraltor from the south, the city has owned the primary trade route between Europe and the rest of the world for centuries. Not surprisingly, everyone wanted a piece of it. The list of the city's landowners is long but reads fast: Greeks, Phoenicians, Spanish Vandals, Byzantines, Arabs, Almohads, Portugese, Brits, Moroccans, International (1912 - 1956), Moroccans (after 1956). Walking around the city, I couldn't figure out who was responsible for most of what I saw except for the old medina's "Kasbah" (walled fort).
Tangier's Old Medina, a mix of Cultures
The Old Medina's Mosque
The Kasbah Museum's Inner Courtyard
The Museum's Arches
"Zeleej" (murals) of the Museum
The Museum's Garden
Beach Bars in the New Medina
The Strip (Casino to the left)
Including talent such as Jack Kerouac, Allen Ginsberg, Gregory Curso, William Burroughs, Brion Gynsin and Paul Bowles, the 1950's counterculture - as well as other artistic presences- was alive in Tangier. Note: all previous names were lost on me until recently reading my "Lonely Planet." Each of them either passed through the city or lived in it for various durations. Several of their locales (Hotel Continental, 1001 Nights, Hotel El-Muniria, Cafe de Paris) still stand today, but due to a severe lack of time I didn't visit any of them except for the Cafe Hafa.
At Cafe Hafa, gulls float weightlessly in the westerly wind. Overlooking Europe on the other side of the greenish-blue sea drinking mint tea, I can appreciate the serenity probably enjoyed by artists past. Not far from the creature comforts of Europe but far enough away to enjoy the low expectations of hassle-free life in Africa. I can appreciate what may have drawn them to Tangier: sweet mint tea.
Filled with Moroccans, the cafe's lower ten cliff-side ledges are filled with smoke, backgammen, tea, music, and conversation. Decades ago, The Rolling Stones and Paul Bowles smoked here.
My final interest was the past king's reforms and the current king's restoration efforts. After Morocco gained indepence in 1956, King Mohommed V moved the country's cultural and economic gravity south. Money quickly left Tangier, sending it into a period of decline that lasted until about a decade ago when the current king began reviving it with a series of robust commercial and tourist programs. After ten years, the king's efforts are slowly pumping blood back into the international city's veins, but it's been a slow process that will continue for the foreseeable future.
The New Tourist Port, Part of the King's 2020 Economic Plan
The Mediterranean feels like I thought it would. With the warm sun on the back of my neck, the clouds sweep in from the west as if pushed by a large broom over a sprawling beach that's lined with small palms and boardwalk-bound pedestrians. The breeze nips calmly as vehicles patiently hum behind me.
The Bayan Trees of Mendoubia Gardens. Located behind the old French Governor's mansion, these protected trees are centuries old and weigh tons. Adaptive as they are, their branches (to the right and left) grow down to the ground and act as additional support.
The recently renovated Grand Socco, where the New and Old Medina's meet.
The Group at the Grand Socco Fountain.
By the end of the day, we saw both major parts of the city and got a good look at most of the major attractions. To me, however, more questions were raised than answered. What do the counterculture hangouts look like? Do they feel the same as they did 50 years ago? What's the king's plan for rebuilding the port? How will the projected increase in tourism impact the international city and the country?
But, before I knew it, our van was pin-balling down the hair-pin turns of the minor Rif highway to Chefchaouen and these questions were quickly replaced by more pressing ones of self-preservation (see Chefchaouen: Part 1 of 2 from yesterday).
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