So...it's been a little while since I've posted, and a lot's happened in my second and third weeks here: I've moved into my own place, continued school, toured some of Rabat's sites, met new people, traveled to Marrakesh and followed Egypt's aftermath here in Morocco. I expect future - more detailed - entries on most, but here's a glimpse until then...
Well, after spending only two of my scheduled four weeks with my host family, I moved into my own place. It's a modestly-priced, two-bedroom, furnished apartment in Rabat's most popular neighborhood. Nothing atypical when compared to an American apartment (like making a shower) except that I use a propane tank for my stove because gas isn't a commercially-provided utility around here. This place is actually pretty modern, fit with a flat-screen, wall-mounted TV, a couple hundred satellite channels, electric window shades and a couple streamlined toilets sitting in the bathrooms. My power hasn't gone off once. My water's warm. A decent view and roof access make possible the random chance to catch some sun...
My school, "Qalam wa LawH" (Pen and Tablet), has continued its patience in dealing with my fleeting attempts to learn the local dialect. After two weeks, they passed me and my two colleagues along to the second beginner level of the course and a new instructor. Though the curriculum is still rather unstructured when compared to western education systems, the staff is continuously at the disposal of their students and the freedom to jump from topic to topic keeps things interested. My classmate, Gwyneth, compared their teaching method to planting a flower - you don't know when it will sprout or how it will grow. I agree with her, as each of our classes seem to grow nowhere within the vicinity of where they started or where I thought they'd go.
A more structured part of the course is its "field trips." Held on Tuesday and Thursday, each trip visits one of Rabat's historical or cultural landmarks. I've been on three so far: The old city of Chellah, The Archeological Museum and The Tour Hassan (I'll describe each of these in forth-coming posts). Next week, trips to Rabat's Gardens and the Moroccan National Library are on the docket...
These trips - and the course in general - have been a great way to meet fellow ex-patriots and learn the nuances of interacting with the locals. My two classmates, Gwyneth and Gaelle, have become quick friends, giving me something to aspire to (as each of them knows a handful of languages already). The rest of the school is fairly small as well, but offers a plethora of nationalities, backgrounds and reasons to study either Modern Standard Arabic or Darija. Americans only make up roughly half of the student population, while Europeans and a flock of Asians (as they're rarely seen alone) balance out the remainder.
Outside of the course, the Embassy promoted a joint Moroccan - American percussion performance in Morocco's National Theater. A mix of Rabat's deaf-mute percussionists and Southern University's marching band, this was one of my favorite experiences thus far. Also, the Marrakesh International Marathon ran last weekend, giving me and a couple Olmsted friends a good reason to visit. Though I didn't end up running, the trip was great, from finally meeting a "Facebook friend" in person for the first time in over a year, to getting accosted by one of the monkeys in "Jamaa l'Fna" (Gathering of the Arts). Marrakesh lived up to the expectations. More to come regarding this weekend!
Finally, Egypt's revolution has been televised on every cafè television set that I've seen over the past couple of weeks. There's always a crowd sitting or standing and watching it unfold. Pending on the locale, these viewers could be older men only or a mixed group of "shabab" (young people). They sit and watch; they discuss; they smoke, and...they move along with their day. This is about the extent that I've seen Egypt's troubles affect Morocco in daily life. On the contrary (and unconfirmed), I was told that groups in Tangier and Fez used social media sites to rally in support of Morocco's King, Mohammed VI.
So, I've stayed around Rabat this weekend and set up the apartment a bit; gotta go someplace in Morocco next week; any suggestions?
Well, after spending only two of my scheduled four weeks with my host family, I moved into my own place. It's a modestly-priced, two-bedroom, furnished apartment in Rabat's most popular neighborhood. Nothing atypical when compared to an American apartment (like making a shower) except that I use a propane tank for my stove because gas isn't a commercially-provided utility around here. This place is actually pretty modern, fit with a flat-screen, wall-mounted TV, a couple hundred satellite channels, electric window shades and a couple streamlined toilets sitting in the bathrooms. My power hasn't gone off once. My water's warm. A decent view and roof access make possible the random chance to catch some sun...
My school, "Qalam wa LawH" (Pen and Tablet), has continued its patience in dealing with my fleeting attempts to learn the local dialect. After two weeks, they passed me and my two colleagues along to the second beginner level of the course and a new instructor. Though the curriculum is still rather unstructured when compared to western education systems, the staff is continuously at the disposal of their students and the freedom to jump from topic to topic keeps things interested. My classmate, Gwyneth, compared their teaching method to planting a flower - you don't know when it will sprout or how it will grow. I agree with her, as each of our classes seem to grow nowhere within the vicinity of where they started or where I thought they'd go.
A more structured part of the course is its "field trips." Held on Tuesday and Thursday, each trip visits one of Rabat's historical or cultural landmarks. I've been on three so far: The old city of Chellah, The Archeological Museum and The Tour Hassan (I'll describe each of these in forth-coming posts). Next week, trips to Rabat's Gardens and the Moroccan National Library are on the docket...
These trips - and the course in general - have been a great way to meet fellow ex-patriots and learn the nuances of interacting with the locals. My two classmates, Gwyneth and Gaelle, have become quick friends, giving me something to aspire to (as each of them knows a handful of languages already). The rest of the school is fairly small as well, but offers a plethora of nationalities, backgrounds and reasons to study either Modern Standard Arabic or Darija. Americans only make up roughly half of the student population, while Europeans and a flock of Asians (as they're rarely seen alone) balance out the remainder.
Outside of the course, the Embassy promoted a joint Moroccan - American percussion performance in Morocco's National Theater. A mix of Rabat's deaf-mute percussionists and Southern University's marching band, this was one of my favorite experiences thus far. Also, the Marrakesh International Marathon ran last weekend, giving me and a couple Olmsted friends a good reason to visit. Though I didn't end up running, the trip was great, from finally meeting a "Facebook friend" in person for the first time in over a year, to getting accosted by one of the monkeys in "Jamaa l'Fna" (Gathering of the Arts). Marrakesh lived up to the expectations. More to come regarding this weekend!
Finally, Egypt's revolution has been televised on every cafè television set that I've seen over the past couple of weeks. There's always a crowd sitting or standing and watching it unfold. Pending on the locale, these viewers could be older men only or a mixed group of "shabab" (young people). They sit and watch; they discuss; they smoke, and...they move along with their day. This is about the extent that I've seen Egypt's troubles affect Morocco in daily life. On the contrary (and unconfirmed), I was told that groups in Tangier and Fez used social media sites to rally in support of Morocco's King, Mohammed VI.
So, I've stayed around Rabat this weekend and set up the apartment a bit; gotta go someplace in Morocco next week; any suggestions?
I am so excited for you and this great adventure Jay. Also thankful you seem to be making the MOST of this time. I'm enjoying Morroco through your eyes and experiences!
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